May 2005 Archives


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May 30, 2005

You Manhattanites can keep your soggy rooftops and crowded little hibachis.  For summer barbecues, Brooklyn's got you beat.  I went to three grillin and chillin festivities this Memorial Day weekend without ever having to leave the big-sky borough. 

R2d2Today, I rolled over to Winnie & Chris's Boerum Hill apartment where Jim was busy deflowering the brand new smoker he bought with Chris.  I followed the pungent trail of mesquite to their airy apartment, where Jim was manning the steadily puffing green R2D2 on the mini-deck out back. 

They broke the smoker in with several racks of dry-rubbed pork spareribs.  "Never put sugar or tomato on the rib rub," Jim said.  "It just burns and turns all black."  Winnie also brined two chickens, dry-rubbed with a cayenne cumin clove blend and lowered the birds into the smoker's roomy cavity.

Rib_2The result?  Tender, spicy, mesquite-infused ribs with a rosy ring of smoke that could give any of those BBQ festival participants a run for their money.  And smoky, juicy chicken that will be incredible sliced cold on tomorrow's salad.  Chris's cinnamon and butter-spiked sweet potato mash cooled our spicy tongues while Winnie's dandelion pea shoot salad with sauteed mushrooms and fiddlehead ferns cleansed our palates. 

IcecreamI'm glad I saved room for our perfect summer dessert of lavender-mint syrup macerated mixed berries with a touch of balsamic vinegar over Ciao Bella vanilla gelato.

Only drawback to our hot fun in the summertime?  I reek like I went in the smoker myself.  T-Bone, the tabby I'm catsitting, wouldn't stop licking my arm when I got home.  I guess even cats love the cue.Chicken

I'm looking forward to smoke-filled weekends with a parade of carcasses -- duck!  oysters!  baby back ribs!  trout!  I'm going to try and find good slaw and baked beans recipes. 

Summer's been coming on slowly this year, but this weekend was an auspicious start.  Jim thought perhaps the dry rub could have used a bit less salt, and the ribs could have stayed in the smoker a smidge longer so the meat would slip off the bone more readily, but hey -- we've got the whole summer to perfect our smoking technique. 

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May 29, 2005

JonlyonName:  Jon Lyon

Occupation:  Food publicity

Borough:  Manhattan

What did you eat today?

1 Stonyfield Farms Blueberry Yogurt
Chicken with broccoli and brown rice for lunch
½ a pecan square leftover from a meeting in my office
Asparagus and parmesan soup
A double-cut pork chop with apricot rhubarb chutney and herbed cornbread

What do you never eat?

I don’t eat offal.  I won’t eat flaky white fishes, like the snappers, the flounders, the dorades; it’s the texture.  I won’t eat anchovies, EVER.  I’ll eat squid but I won’t eat octopus.

[DOUG:  Yeah, octopus is always tough, isn't it? 

GANDA:  I once had octopus tostadas that were unbelievable.  The octopus was as soft as a baby's ass.]

I’ll never eat baby ass either, while you’re on the topic.

Complete this sentence:  In my refrigerator, you can always find:

Four B squared caffeinated Budweisers because someone brought them over and I’ll never drink them.  It’s like Red Bull meets beer.  The only other thing you will always find is Stonyfield Farms yogurt and apple juice.

What is your favorite kitchen item?

My tongs.

Where do you eat out most frequently?

1.    The Grey Dog, in terms of sheer volume.
2.    August
3.    Westville
4.    Blue Ribbon Bakery
5.    Sammy’s
6.    Tabla Bread Bar -- It’s right next door to my office, it’s like my cafeteria.
7.    and Joe’s Pizza

World ends tomorrow.  What would you like for your last meal?

That’s a tough question, because those things change from day to day.  But today, I'd like:
A standing rib roast with Yorkshire pudding.  And we always take the blood from the rib roast and everyone drinks a shot of the blood.  It's not just fatty drippings.  It's extra blood from the roast that's cooked in the pan.

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May 27, 2005

12_25_underwood_carrie_smileThis past Tuesday was the final Contender fight between Petah Manfredo, Jr. and Sergio Mora.  I can't go into the details because I'm still a little heartbroken that my beloved Petah lost.  I know Sergio was deserving.  I know little mijo can buy his loving mama a house now.

Anyway, I coulda been watching American Idol instead.  We need TiVo, dammit!  I just spent the last half hour downloading the Carrie Underwood Wins American Idol clip about fifty times, watching her sway in her diaphanous dress as the sparks shower down behind her.  I cry every time her little country voice breaks with emotion and the confetti starts to rain down.  It's right up there with Kelly Clarkson freaking out while singing, "Oh, I can't believe it's happening to meeeee."  I know it's not a perfect performance, so I just squint and mentally pitch-correct when she goes for the modulation.  Cut her a little slack.  She's choking back the tears.  She used to live on a FARM, people!  She had never left OKLAHOMA before! 

So what does this have to do with food?  ABSOLUTELY NOTHING.  But Doug's not home and I wanted to share that moment with SOMEONE. 

So, right, back to the food.  Here's the elegant and simple appetizer I served on Contender night:

Asparagus with white truffle oil, parmesan, and fried egg

Trim and peel asparagus bottoms (5-7 spears per person).  Steam til tender.  In the last minute of steaming, fry 1 egg per person in butter.  Plate asparagus.  Generously shave parmesan on asparagus.  Salt & pepper the asparagus.  Top with fried egg.  Dribble a little truffle oil over the whole thing.  Salt and pepper the fried egg.  Shut up and eat so I can listen to Carrie again.

*P.S.  Isn't this picture hot?  Doesn't it look like A-Fed is whispering sweet nothings into Carrie's ear? 

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May 27, 2005

IndexINCOMING TANGENT!  For those of you who haven't skipped town, I'm singing (a little bit) with Miho Hatori tomorrow at Tonic, 8 pm.  It's her fabulously danceable solo material, totally new line-up.  Band features:

Thomas Bartlett on keys
Shelley Burgon on harp
Oren Bloedow on bass
Mauro Refosco on percussion
Ben Perowsky on drums
yours truly on backing vox

Saturday, May 28
Tonic
107 Norfolk at Delancey
8 pm ONLY!
$10

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May 27, 2005

Orange_best1Name:  Blaise K

Occupation:
 Writer, graphic designer, now apparently a photographer too. I think the occupation would probably fall under the general category of "hack." Which is fun.

Borough:  Brooklyn

What did you eat today?

Coffee with half and half and one sugar. A huge mesclun salad with chick peas, avocado, tomato, corn, mushrooms, green peppers, feta cheese, croutons, and balsamic. Slightly McSalad-ish, but with fresh, organic ingredients. I haven't been eating enough greens lately. I think the green peppers might make me fart. Oh yeah, I also ate my daily meds this morning. Does that count?

What do you never eat?

Hmmm... Well, I no longer eat mallomars because I had a problem once.  One time I ate a whole box in one sitting. That's 12 mallomars. This was during, and probably a result of, the time that I gained weight for what was really the first time in my life. It was two years ago. Let's be reasonable. I got fat. then I got thin again. I feel that if I ate so much as one mallomar now, I'd be in real trouble. I avoid them like the plague. I think about them often. It's like being in AA, or something. MA, anyone? I pretty much eat everything else. I don't eat oysters, but I love seafood and shellfish. Um... I don't eat... what else don't I eat? I don't eat roast beef, but I love red meat. Roast beef tears up my stomach. It's ugly. I don't eat, like, chip shop food.  I would, but I can't. It all goes back to stomach drama and often results in spending more time on the pot than I'd really like to. Is that too much information?  [Ed.--There's no such thing as TMI with me, darling.] Also, I don't eat figs.

Complete this sentence:  In my refrigerator, you can always find:

Ha! Good one! Um, a Brita pitcher. Though you won't always find water in it. My boyfriend loves milk and orange juice so he usually keeps one or both in my fridge. And usually there's Coca-cola or root beer in there whenever he's around. There's really nothing you can *always* find in my fridge. Except maybe capers and some film from the camera store. My dad, who's a painter and photographer, always kept film in the fridge because he said it lasts longer. When I was growing up, sometimes that was all you'd find in my childhood fridge too. I'd like to have more in my fridge. But usually when I have more food in there the majority of it never gets eaten and then it goes bad. And then I forget to throw it out. And then it's gross. And then I feel bad about myself because I wasted all of this food and people are starving and I wish I could get my money back.

What is your favorite kitchen item?

Okay. This is so predictable for anyone who knows me. My favorite kitchen item is this pair of plastic placemats that have brightly colored stripes on them. Kind of faux Merrimekko. I also bought these vintage knobs for my kitchen cabinets that have cocks on them. You know, roosters. Each one is different. Very kitschy. I love them, especially when I remember to notice them. I don't really cook.  Clearly.

Where do you eat out most frequently?

I haven't gone out to eat that much lately because I'm so poor, but I do go to Bonnie's Grill on Fifth Avenue in Brooklyn. The tastiest french fries ever and the best burgers in the borough. If you go and sit at the counter the tattooed boys who work there are serving your dish with one hand and taking a swig from a Sierra Nevada with the other. Music's always good. It's just a fun place all around. The last few places that I ate out at were Patois, al di la... Oh, and I go to Le Gamin in the East Village for crepes and Veselka fairly regularly, also for crepes. And potato pancakes. And stuffed cabbage. For takeout I usually order from this Indian restaurant called Amin or this pizza place that has incredible homemade lasagna and chocolate mousse.

World ends tomorrow.  What would you like for your last meal?


A cup of clam chowder with a hunk of melted butter on top from this place called the Barnacle in Marblehead.
Lobster.
Chocolate milk.
A medium rare burger from the Cross Sound Ferry snack bar. I don't know why those things are so fucking good -- I probably wouldn't want to know.
My nana's tapioca pudding, may she rest in peace (so i'm not sure how that would happen).
A light riesling.
French fries from Burger King.
Scallops.
Mussels.
Sushi from Tomoe.
Pumpkin ravioli.
Squash soup.
Kahlua ice cream with chocolate sprinkles. I'm totally going to be sick.
A cosmopolitan.
Pigs in a blanket.
And I might as well have those gd mallomars.

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May 25, 2005

MattyName:  Matthew Melnyk

Occupation:
Structural Designer

Borough: 
Brooklyn

What did you eat today? 

Breakfast - Bagel with cream cheese, cup(s) of coffee

Lunch - Roast turkey on black bread with brie, honey mustard and bacon. Soy "lightly" salted chips and a snapple iced tea with lemon.

Dinner - Duck confit with mushroom reduction and some kind of thorny lettuce, Glass of Cabernet

What do you never eat?

Pad-Thai

Complete this sentence:  In my refrigerator, you can always find:

What refrigerator?

What is your favorite kitchen item?

A mop, kidding...uhm, a sharp chef's knife?

Where do you eat out most frequently?

With others; lately I've been going to diner type places...

World ends tomorrow.  What would you like for your last meal?

Twelve west-coast oysters on the half shell
Cobb salad with fresh bacon
Five fried chicken legs (crispy)
Mashed potatoes slightly salty
Steamed baby asparagus
With copious amounts of red wine, Cabernet preferably...and for dessert, either warm chocolate cake or panna cotta with fresh blueberries and a rich cup of joe.

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May 25, 2005

For you Cobble Hill kids, from my friend Winnie:

Taku:  It's a Japanese restaurant that doesn't serve sushi, so more like an izakaya.  The two main cooks met at Bond street and neither of them are Japanese, but they have been making Japanese food for a long time.

They have a full bar, where you can sit and hang out, and an assortment of snacks, appetizers, noodles (ramen and soba), main courses and desserts. Main courses run about $15-28 and include steak, roasted chicken, pan seared scallops and a seafood nabe being the head chef's self-proclaimed best bang for the buck. It looked good - packed with all sorts of yummy things like beautiful shrimp, different kinds of clams, mussels, etc. The wings are also an excellent snack, marinated in a yuzu brine with a cucumber yogurt type of dipping sauce.

Taku
116 Smith Street
b/n Pacific and Dean

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May 22, 2005

B00005jkg101lzzzzzzzLast night was my cousin Lynda's last night in town, so my other cousin Sirion and I went over to her hotel room to hang.  We were flipping channels when we landed in the middle of Eat Drink Man Woman, one of my favorite movies and, of course, the inspiration for the title of this blog.  That movie speaks to me on a gazillion levels, but one of my favorite bits of dialogue happens during one of the Chu family's many nonchalant, elaborate home dinners.  The elder sister Jia-Jen complains about the next door neighbors' relentless karaoke-ing, to which younger sister Jia-Chien shrugs, "We communicate by eating.  They do it by singing."

My family is definitely of the communication by stomach school.  This visit had been especially food-filled, even by our gluttonous standards.  It seemed like all of the out-of-towner activities we had lined up were meal related.  We had hardly finished digesting one meal before we threw ourselves into the next.  When we weren't eating food, we were discussing our next meal.  Between the eight of us over eight days, we put back steak, several dozen oysters (raw and fried), sweetbreads, lamb's brain, anchovies, lobster, foie gras, chicken liver, many street vendor hot dogs, Brazilian skewered meats, lots of chocolates, whole fried fish, soft shell crabs, and much, much more. 

LeeluakBut the best meal, by far, was the one my aunt prepared at my house last Saturday.  It's a rare treat when this many members of my family are in the same town at the same time, so my aunt decided that she was up to the task of cooking for us all.  Doug's Swedish cousins were also in town, so we invited the three of them to join us, making it a feast for 11 -- ten omnivores and one pregnant vegetarian, Swedes and Thais and Americans in various intersecting circles.  This was our menu:

Stir-fried Chinese broccoli with garlic (vegetarian)
Tom Kha Gai -- Chicken coconut soup made with lemongrass and galangal from my aunt's garden
Tom Kha Het (vegetarian) -- Mushroom coconut soup, vegetarian variation of Tom Kha Gai
Broiled sirloin with my dad's special spicy garlic-serrano-lime dressing
Moo Kaprow -- Pork with Thai basil
Baked salmon with tomatoes and soy sauce
Som Tam style carrot salad
Shrimp with Satoh -- Satoh are sometimes called Chinese olives.  They're stinky before you eat them and apparently even stinkier when they exit.  (My aunt says think asparagus, but 10x worse)
Oyster mushrooms with ramps (vegetarian)

As usual, my aunt was worried that we wouldn't have enough food and made sure we had eggs handy in case she had to whip up an omelet filler.  And as usual, her fears were misplaced as we gorged til we collectively had to undo the top buttons on our pants.  We filled our plates from the buffet in the dining room and sat in a circle, balancing our plates in our laps in the living room.  My uncharacteristically sassy aunt kept cracking zingers -- when Doug said, "Wow, that's spicy," she said, "Wait til tomorrow!"

Doug's family fit right in.  They embraced our ragtag crew as much as we embraced them because we all spoke the language of family through our stomachs.  We traded respective foreign language phrases (Lee luak -- an important Thai term for the digestion/relaxation time after a gutbusting meal; "You look like a bag of ice skates" is a Swedish idiom for "You look like shit.")  We playfully fought over who would get to wash the dishes.  We understood each other.  We were full.

My Aunt's Moo Kraprow -- Pork with Thai Basil*

6-8 cloves of garlic
3-5 serrano or jalapeno chilies, sliced
1 tbsp. vegetable oil
1 lb. ground pork
1 bunch Thai basil (can be found in Thai markets.  If unavailable, substitute regular basil)
3 tbsp. oyster sauce
1 tsp. fish sauce
1 tsp. sugar

Roughly smash the garlic and chilies together with a mortar and pestle.  If you don't have a mortar and pestle, mince and smash them with your knife as best you can.  Heat a wok or deep frying pan over high heat.  When the pan is hot, add the oil and swirl around. Throw in your smashed garlic and chilies and stir.  Add ground pork and brown, stirring well.  Add oyster sauce, fish sauce, and sugar.  Adjust seasoning to taste.  Strip the basil leaves from their stems.  Fold the whole basil leaves into the pork.  Serve immediately with rice.  Serves two or three or six, depending on how many other dishes you've got.

*For my brother Danny and Miho -- wish you guys could have come out for this one!  We missed you.


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May 22, 2005

LilacSometimes curry-caviar-wasabi-ancho-taleggio-cumin chocolate requires too much thinking.  When I need my plain, old-school sweet fix, there's no better place than the West Village's Li-Lac Chocolates.  My favorites are the French Mints -- thin square wafers of smooth, pepperminty confection between the thinnest layers of dark chocolate.  They're like those skinny Andes pillow mints, but 10,000 times better.  Bars of four are $2.25 each, but come on, you want the hefty 1 lb. box for $21.  Believe me, they disappear quickly.

I also love the dark chocolate enrobed syrup-candied ginger and the peanut-shaped peanut butter candies.  Hint hint.

Li-Lac Chocolates
40 8th Ave. at Jane St.

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May 20, 2005

CliptheaderA friend sent me a blurb that says the ever popular Nolita eatery Cafe Habana is opening a sister restaurant in Fort Greene called Habana Outpost.  No more clawing your way in through the pre-purge rice and beans binging clothes hanger crowd in Manhattan.  Maybe at the Brooklyn location, you'll feel un-self-conscious enough to actually get something to eat.  Note to hippies: the new place is solar-powered, apparently.  And I have to admit -- the Mexican-style corn is good.

Habana Outpost

755-757 Fulton Street at South Portland Avenue
Fort Greene, Brooklyn
(718-230-8238)

E-mail tips to gandas[at]gmail[dot]com.

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My name is Ganda. I am the admiral on this frakking tin can.

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