Da Andrea is still rockin', man. Don't fill up on the generous focaccia basket with the dish of olive oil and pitted kalamatas. Instead, get those tigelles that got written up in all the initial reviews. They're still fab -- hot silver dollar flatbreads you split and fill with melty prosciutto and grated parm. They're perfect mated with the salad special, a well-dressed tricolore pile of chopped radicchio, endive and frisee, capped with a fan of sliced avocado and two square leaves of parmigiano reggiano.
The pastas really hit the spot. Though the dishes we ordered looked similarly sauced, the flavors couldn't be more different. Spaghetti alla chitarra with bolognese sauce is straightforward and comforting, with toothy linguine width noodles. My dining companion Jenny's papardelle was tossed in a sensuous, creamy red sauce with a heady truffle oil top note and the lingering complex flavor of sweet fennel sausage -- totally bewitching.
When was the last time you remember having a waiter who was both relaxed and efficient? Ours was both, and charming. The room stays quiet enough for civilized conversation, even when all the tables are filled. Our roomy four top in the back was warm and comfortable. The big, homey meal with two apps, two pastas and one dish of sorbetti set us back $27 each with a 20% tip. "If this were in my neighborhood, I'd be here once a week, " Jenny said.
Da Andrea
557 Hudson St.
212-367-1979
codicil: (I just wanted to use that word) Prior to dinner, Jenny and I went to Employees Only. Doug happened to be meeting a friend there for dinner too, so we met up after work and got the evening started a little early. The bartenders ALWAYS warmly greet Doug like the regular souse that he is, but me? I might as well be some shmuck who walked in by accident off the street. This, even though I've been there just as many times as Doug has (which is a lot, considering I've tried almost every cocktail on the menu and a couple not on the menu). They're always very nice to me, but they seem to think I've never been there before, whereas Doug gets the "How've you been, you're looking dapper, let me polish your spot at the bar, can I make you something special today" treatment. Do Ah oh-fend? Maybe I have to work on my bartender outreach.
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