Went to iCi in Fort Greene with La Doug for Brooklyn Restaurant Week.
A la carte:
New York Magazine-lauded chicken liver schnitzel consisted of three hunks of organ clothed in panko and deep fried, served with a dollop of bland aioli and some overly sweet caramelized onions. Nice crunch, a little oily, and not bad -- but I'd rather have 2nd Ave. Deli's chopped chicken liver on rye with red onion (R.I.P.) or Balthazar's chicken liver foie gras mousse. Our 2 glasses of Raventos cava ($9/glass, bottle retails for $12) tasted day-old.
3 course prix fixe, $20.06 each:
Apps -- Doug's thinly sliced fluke carpaccio with mint shrank in an acidic pool of lemon juice. My watercress salad with pickled onions and beet fragments was simple and straightforward, no complaints.
Mains -- Overcooked and underseasoned sliced duck breast dominoes were splayed over a thirst-inducing salt-potato pancake. It was garnished with a couple of afterthought mustard greens and a pair of dookie-imposter stewed prunes. Doug's skate was swimming in brown butter, also too salty and a little burnt, served with the same mustard greens and a scattered assortment of indeterminate diced veg.
Desserts -- Chocolate cake dessert was an enormous wedge of dark chocolate soft-cooked batter. Translucent glutinous rice lent coconut rice pudding a lovely texture, with an elegant top note of kaffir lime leaf chiffonade (though the garnish is kind of indigestible and gets stuck in your teeth -- perhaps a little kaffir lime zest instead would be better?).
Service was slammed and it took a while for us to get our check (totally understandable considering it was restaurant week). The room is quite elegantly done, with a fireplace, white walls, low ceilings, and sexy light sconces; but the quaint picture is marred by the collegiate servers in low rise jeans and tank tops. The menu looks so promising, but the restaurant is ultimately betrayed by its own Brooklyn nonchalance. iCi seems to suffer from a malaise shared by several Cobble Hill and Park Slope restaurants -- it's good in theory, uses all the right ingredients, has all kinds of good intentions front of house, but the final product still seems amateurish.
A restaurant only accessible from the G train would have to be really fucking good to warrant the trip. iCi is not that good, but if you live in the area and don't have other options, it's probably good enough.
iCi
246 Dekalb Ave. @ Vanderbilt Ave.
718-789-2778
G to Clinton-Washington