March 2007 Archives


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March 9, 2007

Name: Eugene Edele

Occupation: Private cook

Borough: Brookers

Relationship status: Bachelor

What did you eat today?

Jelly donut hole, bacon egg and cheese roll, turkey on a roll, penne with buffala mozz, Green and Black's Maya Gold

What do you never eat?

Greek food [Is it the yogurt? The lamb? The garlic? The sheep's cheese? The eggplant? What's not to love? --Ed.]

Complete this sentence: In my refrigerator, you can always find:

Sambal olek

What is your favorite kitchen item?

tongsee.jpgTongs

Where do you eat out most frequently? Recently at the bodega across Nostrand

World ends tomorrow. What would you like for your last meal?

Green papaya salad, duck and fries, Coke and Phish food.

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March 5, 2007

I love watching Jacques Pepin cook, but my favorite thing is when he carves little decorative creatures out of fruits and vegetables. One cut here, snip around there, et voila! five piglets suckling their mama from a pea pod!

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March 4, 2007

I've been crazy excited about this recipe for Japanese style curry for a while, and I'm happy to report that it's awesome and pretty hard to fuck up. The recipe originally appeared in this year's issue of the Saveur 100. I cooked it again from memory today (with a few alterations to suit my taste) and it's spectacular.

My friend Miho says Japanese curry came about after a Japanese woman married to an Indian man tried to recreate the food her husband missed eating. I'm a huge fan of Golden Curry, the kind of Japanese curry you make from a greasy brick, but this recipe is tastier and a lot less guilt-inducing because it doesn't have all of the shelf-stable animal fats, hydrogenated oils and MSG of the packaged kind. You must try it.

There are so many possible variations -- totally vegetarian with vegetable broth, maybe leeks and mushrooms, plain curry with tonkatsu (panko-breaded fried pork cutlets), curry with udon noodles and a simple soy broth, etc. You could probably mix up your own curry powder, or use whatever curry powder you have on hand, but the S&B gives it the right mild heat. If you have Asian-style chicken stock on hand (made with ginger, garlic, cilantro, celery aromatics), this is the perfect recipe to use it in.

My changes: I added way more garlic and ginger, and my proportions suited the amount of ingredients I had on hand. I added wine to pick up the fond -- Japanese beer might be better, or maybe cooking sake, or you could forgo it and just use stock. The original recipe calls for a bay leaf, I think -- I forgot to use it when I made it tonight and I didn't miss it. If you don't have an apple, try adding half a mashed banana instead. I also substitute double strength tomato paste for the crushed tomatoes -- who wants to open a whole can for such a small amount of umami booster? Serve with fresh Japanese rice and the red pickled ginger, maybe with a side of sesame spinach. Great for leftovers or next day lunch. Make sure you invite people over -- this is definitely the kind of dish where, if left to your own devices, you'll wind up eating the whole pot and then hating yourself for it. It is for me, anyway.

Wafuu (Japanese-style) Curry

1 1/2 lbs. boneless skinless chicken thighs or legs
salt
pepper
2 tbsp. vegetable oil
1 onion, half chopped fine, half cut into 1-inch pieces
6 cloves garlic, minced (about 1 1/2 tbsp.)
1 1/2 inch piece of ginger, minced (about 1 tbsp.)
2 tbsp. butter
4 tbsp. flour
3 tbsp. S&B Oriental Curry Powder*
1 tbsp. double strength tomato paste
1/2 cup white wine
4 cups chicken stock
3 carrots, cut into coins
2 russet potatoes, cut into small chunks
1 small sweetish apple (Fuji, Pink Lady, Gala, Golden Delicious etc.)
2 tsp. honey
1 tsp. soy sauce

1. Put the chicken stock on low heat in a covered medium sized pot. On a separate burner, heat up your large Dutch oven over high heat. Add vegetable oil. Add chicken to the oil and season liberally with salt and pepper. Brown the chicken til there are lots of crispy brown bits on the bottom of the pot. Remove the chicken.
2. In the same pot, melt the butter. Add the finely chopped half-onion, garlic, and ginger. Saute til the onion is translucent, about 2 mins. Sprinkle the flour over the onion mixture and stir constantly, cooking the roux mash for a few minutes until everything gets a little golden brown. Add the curry powder and tomato paste, stirring well and cooking down for another thirty seconds or so.
3. At this point, you'll have lots of delicious fond on the bottom of your pot. Throw in the wine and stir really well, scraping up all the brown bits from the bottom of the pot. The mixture will bubble and thicken.
4. Put the chicken back in the pot and stir in all of your hot stock, the remaining onion pieces, carrots, and potatoes. Reduce to low heat. Put the lid on it and simmer for about an hour, until the potatoes and carrots are super tender.
5. Once everything's fork tender, coarsely grate your small apple. Stir the apple, honey and soy sauce into the curry. Cook for five more minutes. Serve now or serve later, it's delicious either way.

*S&B Curry Powder is not that hard to find. You can definitely find it at Sunrise, JAS Mart or any of the other Japanese grocery stores. If you're not near any of those places, check the Korean owned delis -- I got mine at a Korean green grocer on Bleecker St. I think you can find it in Chinatown too.

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March 2, 2007

Name: Jinius

Occupation: Speechwriter/blogger

Borough: Manhattan

Relationship status: Newly single and ready to mingle. Ha.

What did you eat today?

I had the day off so I went to Cafe Mogador and had the eggs with harissa sauce, hummus, tabouleh, and two cups of coffee. I love anything spicy and I'm addicted to caffeine.

What do you never eat?

I'm actually not a big fan of eggs. But I like them moroccan style and drenched in harissa.

Complete this sentence: In my refrigerator, you can always find:

Red pepper hummus from Trader Joe's, champagne, and chocolate.

What is your favorite kitchen item?

rabbit.jpgThe rabbit. (Wine opener of course)

Where do you eat out most frequently?
I'm a creature of habit and I go where the people are friendly. I love Cafe Mogador for brunch and Supper for, well, supper. I'm also a big fan of the Japanese noodle shop Minca in the East Village. I actually think they are better than Momofuku and there is never a wait.

World ends tomorrow. What would you like for your last meal?

I would eat all carbs. The pope stranglers dish from Supper, cha chang myun from a Korean noodle shop, the mac and cheese from the Half King, and a croissant from Balthazar bakery.

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March 1, 2007

steak.jpgDear Mr. Bruni,

At first I thought I wouldn't pay attention to your little publicity stunt of a review. But the more I think about it, the more riled I get. The whole thing is just so disgustingly self-congratulatory, even for you. First of all, you want to review a steakhouse in a strip club so you can show us all how goddamned "punny" you are, fine. But talk about the food! You talk about the food for maybe 25% of the article and the rest of the time you spend ridiculing the strippers, who apparently don't know the difference between an M.D. and a Ph.D., who offer to strip and are met with silence. Come on! Making fun of strippers is so fucking low and easy and cheap. You humiliate them all over again for all the world to see in your review.

You're pretty coy about your sexuality in the piece, so much so that some of the people who've been discussing the review in the blogosphere don't know that you're not straight. It's almost like you're trying to show all the straight guys how straight you can act, how good you can be at objectifying and laughing at the strippers too. You may not get a rise out of seeing those women, but does it make you feel good to make fun of them for not being able to spell their stage names? That whole "buttery nipple" exchange -- did you write that for your straight male readers, to give them a little show and get them off? Did you think it was kosher for you to objectify the women just because you're not objectifying them for your own sexual gratification? You want to ridicule, why not talk about the men who go there? (I went to a strip club once, and the people I pitied the most weren't the bored female dancers but the men staring into the punani like it was going to talk back to them.)

And Pete Wells, what was with the fucking slide show? Is the Dining section now playing the role of Page 3 in the Gray Lady? Did those half-clad women help me better understand what a great cook Adam Perry Lang is? Are we going to get slide shows of Mario Batali's orange fuzzed calves next time you talk about his sausage?

Fine, I am a frigid old maid who will never step foot into a Penthouse club for a steak, precisely because those kinds of displays just aren't good for my digestion. But I'm part of the readership. Lots of women are part of the readership. Lots of women go out to dine. And for me, that's a place I'll never go to. How can you review a restaurant that the majority of the female half of your readership will never step foot into? It's okay for a magazine like Esquire to cover it -- that's a men's magazine. But the New York Fucking Times? Marian Burros, Melissa Clark, Julia Moskin, Florence Fabricant, I wonder what they all think about this. I'm disgusted, and if they're not disgusted, I'm disgusted on their behalf.

Ultimately, it comes down to this: When are we going to have a reviewer who wants to talk about food more than he wants to talk about himself?

Ganda

ADDENDUM: It's interesting to think about this review in the context of his role as Panchito, journalist/member of the George W. Bush inner circle. Both are cases of glorifying and excusing bad frat boy behavior, the one having much higher stakes than the other. Still, the integrity of the criticism feels compromised by this need to impress the brotherhood; the reporting gets lost behind the desire to entertain, to write something the guys will have a laugh about. It's playing the role of bemused outsider while really endorsing bad boy behavior with a nod and a wink.

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My name is Ganda. What kind of name is France Gall?

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