There's nothing like a little R&R with friends to recharge the old batteries. Doug's mom went out of town, so we moved in for the weekend bearing groceries, liquor, and bathing suits. We were laughing at what a bunch of old farts we've become -- who'd've thunk we could get so excited about hanging out at mom's house?

But what's not to love? An adorable house on the Cape, a deck festooned with pink roses, a dreamy kitchen with all the amenities, peace and quiet. You could hear and smell the sea from the woodsy neighborhood we were in. We noshed all weekend on nubbly shrimp butter toasts, Pimm's cup, and pan-fried cod. Doug baked and frosted a giant four-layer pecan spice cake with lemony cream cheese icing. It pretty much set me back about 3 weeks in exercise maintenance, but it was worth it. Oink oink.

I'd never been to Cape Cod, and being from California, I didn't really have any preconceptions of what the Cape would be like. Big houses with white decks and pebble gray shingles sit on unbelievably lush hills of grass. We were just blocks from a private beach, where mossy rocks jutted out onto a boisterous ocean and seabirds were kamikaze diving for fish.

A few highlights:

[At the McDonald's drive-thru.]

DOUG: I just need a little caffeine. I'm going to get a Diet Coke. Anyone want anything?

GANDA: No. Ooh, I want a caramel sundae if they have it.

BOX: Can I take your order?

DOUG: Hi, yeah, can I get a medium Diet Coke and a caramel sundae?

BOX: We don't have caramel, just chocolate and strawberry.

DOUG: [to me] You want?

GANDA: No.

DOUG: Okay, then, I'll just get a cone.

HEE JIN: Wait, get me a small fries.

GANDA: Make that a medium fries.

DOUG:[to BOX] And can I get a large fries?

**

The Raw Bar in Popponessett, where the steamers dipped in clarified butter were the best I've ever had; the lobster roll runneth over with scarlet, sweet lobster hunks just barely anointed with mayo; the oysters were so tantalizing and icy, I had to try one though I don't usually touch them in the summer. I asked the bronzed teenage waitress what kind of oysters they were, and she gave me this look like, "Jigga-wha?" I'll tell you what they were -- they were quivering, fresh and briny, perfect with a squeeze of lemon and a squirt of horseradishy cocktail sauce, and that's all you need to know.

**

Francis proclaimed these the best muffins he's ever had. I'm not disagreeing. The French butter gives them a crispy top and the sour cream keeps the crumb moist. I used a Barefoot Contessa Family Style recipe, which I changed just a bit to suit the ingredients we had. I should have doubled the recipe though -- I could have eaten five of those muffins myself.

Fruity Coffee Cake Muffins

5 tbsp. unsalted French butter at room temperature (I used Lescure)
3/4 c. sugar
2 large eggs
3/4 tsp. vanilla
1/2 c. sour cream
1/8 c. milk
1 1/4 c. flour
1 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. baking soda
1/4 tsp. salt
1 c. blueberries
2 large strawberries, diced
1/2 ripe banana, diced

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a muffin tin or line with paper cups. Beat sugar and butter together. Add vanilla, eggs, sour cream and milk. Beat some more. In a separate bowl, sift flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together. Mix dry ingredients into wet with a light hand til smooth but not overbeaten. Fold fruit in. Scoop into muffin tin. Bake for 25-30 minutes til golden. Makes 9 muffins.

**

We spent all day Sunday chasing the shade across the backyard while drinking sangria. We nibbled on russet chips and Franwiches^TM, Francis's genius contribution to the culinary world. (I'm not sure if I'm allowed to divulge his recipe, so you'll have to use your imagination for now.) La Doug brought the clock radio out and blasted Tracy Chapman with Pavarotti, Mariah, and enough other pop fluff to chase the cardinals away. I thought, wow, if this is what Doug's mom's life is like every day, maybe I should start looking to buy a house outside the city.

Road trip tip: It never hurts to bring a loaf of bread, olives, cheeses, and a bottle of wine to enjoy when you arrive at your destination. Nobody wants to cook after a long drive, and liquor stores will be closed by the time you get there.