November 9, 2009
I have been sitting on this YAWYE for much too long, so the answers are from earlier this fall.  Apologies, Emil.  This is a Stockholm entry, but he usually lives in Brooklyn, so it's the perfect transitional YAWYE.

emil.jpgName: Emil Arvidson

Occupation: Journalist/editor

Neighborhood:
Vasastan, Stockholm/Crown Heights, Brooklyn

Relationship status:
Practically married

What did you eat today?

I have the swine flu, so only one orange and one piece of Swedish sourdough bread, Rallarhalvor, my favorite. Also some milk. Looking at a bag of cheese doodles now. [Got this YAWYE from Emil right after I got back from Sweden, so he probs doesn't have swine flu anymore. --Ed.]  

What do you never eat?

Surströmming - Swedish fermented fish. Also, the Chinese answer to surströmming - stinky tofu. Never again.

Complete this sentence:  In my refrigerator, you can always find:

In my temporary fridge in Vasastan, you'll find mostly wine and ginger root. In my Brooklyn-fridge you will always find kimchi, and Coop-produce going bad.

What is your favorite kitchen item? I like any grill pan.

Where do you eat out most frequently? In NY, I probably go to Grand Sichuan (any branch) the most. Taro Sushi and a great mexican place called Chavella's.  In Stockholm, a place called Dragon House in Hornstull, and hopefully I will be going a lot to a new place called Djuret. Amazing prices on wine there.

World ends tomorrow.  What would you like for your last meal?


One oyster and champagne. Eric Ripert brought that. Then I would actually like to repeat my first meal at Momofuku Ko (have you guys ever heard of this little place?), with wines chosen by my friend and wine consultant, Johan. Then I would like a couple of each of the fruits that grew in my garden when I grew up. Strawberries, currants, raspberries,  etc. Apples. Blueberries from the forest. Then I would like a cake of some kind. My girlfriend brought that. Whiskey after that. Then I would drink Burgundy wines until my heart stopped.

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November 8, 2009
Sugar ban be damned, I always have to eat pang ji (or pang chi) when I'm in L.A.  These Thai street snacks are silver dollar taro coconut patties flecked with chewy kernels of corn.  The batter is scooped into little mounds and pan-fried on a griddle.  They're chewy, not too sweet, and I can eat ten of them in a single sitting.    There's something about the mochi-like, glutinous texture of them that makes my teeth happy, while the delicate lavender hue appeals to the unicorn princess in me.

taro.jpg

They're 10 for $4.00 from Bhan Kanom Thai, which means Thai dessert house.  I recommend buying a box to share and another box to keep for yourself -- they're fantastic reheated on a hot pan at home.

While you're there, stock up on Thai candies and snacks like Party, yam cracker chips with salted butter caramel (a personal fave), dried mango fruit leather rounds, puffed rice crackers with coconut caramel, grilled sticky rice with banana wrapped in banana leaf, chewy dried fish, spicy sugared tamarind and all kinds of sweets you never knew you needed BUT YOU DO.

(Food editors: Why hasn't anyone covered Thai sweets?  Somebody should write that story.)

Bhan Kanom Thai
5271 Hollywood Blvd.
323-871-8030



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November 7, 2009
In case you haven't ascertained on Twitter (or berated me for not calling on Facebook), I'm in L.A. for a visit with the parents.

My Pau's Asian sauce arsenal is unparalleled. Over the years, the collection of bottles has creeped ever closer to the edge of the counter and stove, multiplying and spreading across the tile like an urban colony of salty sauces in tall glass buildings.  For a few years, the condiments were banished out of sight to a cabinet underneath the sink.  Today, they have reclaimed their proper place in arm's reach, right next to the stove, so you never forget what you've got in stock.  The counter display would probably fill other people with anxiety, but its sprawl comforts me.

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Thai people are real condiment lovers.  Condiments often sit at restaurant tables, as if to say, "No, really, have it your way."  Take noodle soup -- nobody ever really eats it straight.  Everyone has their special way of "prung"-ing, or dressing, their soup up.  Some like a spoonful of sour chili sauce, a dash of dried red pepper flakes and a smidge of sugar; some people go for the pickled green chili in vinegar with extra fish sauce for a blast of salt; and when it comes to noodle soup, no cook would ever begrudge a diner for adding a bit of this or that to suit their personal taste.

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One of my favorite condiments, and one there's always a fresh supply of on my Pau's counter, is fried garlic.  Crunchy and golden, it's mellower than raw but flashier than roasted with a bite that lingers.  It's super easy to make and it keeps for quite a long time (unlike raw garlic in oil).  For a little garlic ghost, you can just use the oil; for more punch, you can use the crunchy mince. 

Suggested uses:

1. Use as essential topping for kao thom, or rice soup, one of our favorite weekend breakfasts.

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2.  Drizzle onto a baguette sandwich with roasted pork, vinegar-tossed radish and carrots, cilantro and mint with spicy mayonnaise.

3. Toss with rice vermicelli, lime juice, cooked shrimp, fish sauce, red onion, scallions, chili for a light dinner.

4.  Finish any soup with a spoonful of garlic for extra kick.

5.  Drop some into any dumpling dipping sauce.

Fried Garlic

beaucoup chopped garlic
salt
canola oil or other flavorless oil

1. Mince garlic until fine. 
2. Toss with a bit of salt. 
3. Put in a small pot and add oil to cover.
4. Heat on low, stirring constantly, until garlic is golden brown.  Do not burn!
5. Cool completely.  Keeps at room temp on the countertop for at least a week, but may as well make a fresh batch after that.

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November 7, 2009
On the plane from JFK to LAX.  I put my blanket over my head and managed to sleep for five hours of the six-hour flight.  When I woke up, had this convo:

WOMAN SITTING NEXT TO ME: Excuse me, have you been sleeping this whole time?

ME: Yes.

WOMAN: How do you do that?

ME: Oh, I didn't get enough sleep last night. 

WOMAN: I didn't either, but I couldn't sleep at all.

What I really said:

ME: Well, it's one of the few talents I have.

What I wanted to say:


ME: It's amazing how swine flu just completely knocks you out.
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November 6, 2009
This morning, I got a note from a reader who asked me:

"Hi,
 
Where can I find the full recipe for Bachelor Pasta?
 
Thanks"

To which I was like, huh?  Bachelor pasta...that was something I talked about for a TV segment that some random people came and shot at my house in my actual kitchen.  I didn't know if it ever aired, because I never heard from them again, but apparently it did!  I didn't even know what the show was called.  I was told it was going to be called Toast to Toast, but now it's called Great Cocktails.  And I'm pretty sure that we taped the segment, like, two, maybe even three years ago.

I couldn't figure out which episode it was in so I don't have a clip for you, but here's the story behind bachelor pasta.  My drummer friend Graham taught me to make it.  He learned the recipe from his father, who was also a musician. 

Bachelor pasta is the perfect name for the dish because there's absolutely no measurement necessary and once you eat it, there's no way anyone's going to want to kiss you.  It's also aggressively high carb, high fat in a way that would scare most women.  Makes for a great post-bender sponge.

Bachelor Pasta
adapted from Graham Hawthorne

1 lb. spaghetti (yes, a whole pound!)
1 stick butter (yes, a whole stick!)
5-10 cloves garlic, chopped (or, if you're in no state to wield a knife, I suppose you could use that jarred chopped shit, but I cannot condone this)
2 eggs*
salt
pepper
heaps of grated parmesan

1. Boil water.  Add salt.
2. When water is boiling, add spaghetti.
3. Melt butter on low heat in small saucepan with garlic.  Keep on low until spaghetti is done.
4. Beat eggs.
5. When spaghetti is done, drain and do not rinse.  Put spaghetti in large bowl.  (If no bowl is within arm's reach, put spaghetti back into the pot.)
6. Dump garlic butter over hot spaghetti.  Dump egg in.  Toss vigorously.
7. Salt and pepper to taste.
8. Dump parmesan in.  Toss. 
9. Eat straight from giant bowl (or straight from the pot) with fork.  Serves one if it's just you, serves two if you're with your dad, post-gig.  Perfectly acceptable to eat over the sink while wearing boxers.  Brushing teeth afterwards recommended but not required.

*UPDATE: The author of the e-mail said I said 2 eggs on the show, so 2 eggs it is! 


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November 5, 2009
Special at Hasaki: grilled mushroom plate ($18).  Sprightly white shimeiji, bluefoots, meaty chanterelles, king oyster, maitake, grilled on a flat iron casserole with soy sauce and butter (soy sauce with butter needs to become a more regular part of my repertoire) and brought to the table under a blue ceramic dome, sizzling and chattering.  Robust, animal, like nibbling on a plate of hot earlobes.

Seriously, I need to go out on a date.
 
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Hasaki
210 E. 9th St.
Between 2nd and 3rd Ave.
212 473 3327
6 to Astor Pl. or R to 8th St.


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November 5, 2009
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Help Wanted sign in front of Kyochon on 32nd and 5th Ave.
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November 4, 2009
Seven minutes left for the day!

Cliffs notes: Had dinner with the gorgeous and charming Luisa of The Wednesday Chef fame and my buddy Francis Lam.  I love the internets because it has allowed me to meet such lovely people.  Seriously.  Anyone who thinks the internet is killing socializing is doing something wrong. 

Luisa made some kick ass pork meatballs, which I hope she'll write about for you.  Francis made his famous koshary and I contributed some French Mints from Li-Lac.  Queens on a weekday, totally worth it.

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November 3, 2009
manna.jpg
Picture from the Manna Kitchen website

Heej is probably going to kick me for blowing up our secret spot, but I'm going to do it anyway.

Many Tuesdays and Thursdays after yoga, we refuel at Manna Kitchen in Union Square.  It's an modest, cheap little Korean joint on 18th St., right next to the Fresh store.     

We've pretty much eaten our way through the entire menu at this point, but the thing I order most often, the thing I have probably eaten more of in the last year than anything else, is the Rock 'n Rice -- it's a variation on dol sot bibimbap, the hot stone bowl kind, that can be ordered with tofu or white meat chicken instead of beef. 

You've seen it all before -- the ketchup squirt bottle of chili sauce, the bottomless cups of barley tea, the colorful assortment of sesame oil-sauteed vegetables.  But their secret weapon is the magical, mystical brown rice option.  Brown rice you say?  YES!  It crisps and puffs in that fiery rock pit like nothing else.  Think of that crunchy, toasty, nutty goodness against the jiggle of tofu with a slick of hot sauce.  I can eat it twice a week after yoga and not feel disgusting.

Entree prices hover around $10, and every dish comes with little environmentally-unfriendly foam bowls of kimchi and panchan like cold soy potatoes and onion or marinated fish cakes, often accompanied by a shallow bowl of miso soup.

As a myopic Asian, I really don't mind the retina-stimulating fluorescent lighting against the orange and kelly green formica tables.  In the winter, we sit at the bar stools, hovering over spicy soups that fog up the window we're facing.  In the warmer months, we bring our cafeteria trays outside and sit at wobbly aluminum tables outside, sipping ice water from little styrofoam cups.

Considering the regularity with which we sup at Manna Kitchen, we should probably be on a first name basis with the tall, jolly and bespectacled Korean guy who's always behind the register in his cap and orange t-shirt.  I think I see that guy more often than I see some of my good friends in New York, and though we never acknowledge that out loud, he probably smiles inside about that, too.

Okay, it's not destination dining, obviously.  It's not going to make it onto any best of lists, or even any obscure-chaser's cheap eats list.  And yet it is a destination I dine at probably three or four times a month. The whole ritual -- yoga, casual Korean grub and Chit Chat of Beautiful Ladies with my girlfriends Heej and Sarah -- is something I look forward to every week. 

If you're looking for black goat chigae blessed by a female Korean shaman who smokes mountaintop sesame leaves, then it may not be authentic enough for you.  But that kind of authenticity is bad for my arteries.  I could happily eat this perfect, perfect dish twice a week for as long as I live in New York.

Walking to the subway after dinner:

HEEJ: Do you know how many times I have eaten Korean food this week?  And I'm eating Korean food again tomorrow.

ME: Let me tell you something -- in Korea, they eat Korean food every day.

HEEJ:  Hey, that's true.

Manna Kitchen
28 E. 18th Street between Bway and Park Ave. So.
New York, NY 10003
212-228-1044

*Hello!  Three posts three days in a row!  This NaBloPoMo thing is working!  Except I can't get the acronym right.  I keep thinking NAMBLA.

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November 2, 2009
Fuck me, 11pm and I still haven't posted for the day?  NaMoBloPo is going to kick my ass, I see.

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I parked my bicycle in my work building for the first time today!  They just announced bike parking in the building and I couldn't be more thrilled.

Nevermind that there are only four spots for a building that spans the entire block with 16 floors.  I am going to put a placard on my portion of the rack, pee on it a little and set up camp.

I am having trouble finding proper bike fashion, though.  I wind up wearing bike clothes (light but warm, visible, unrestrictive, able to get dirty) and changing into work clothes (professional but colorful).  But if I'm taking the train home and I'm feeling too lazy to switch back, I wind up in getups like this one.  (Why am I sharing this strangely angled picture which makes me look like I have the legs of an obese toddler?  Because that's all I got for NaMoBloPo and you are going to have to deal with it.)

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My name is Ganda. I write about food and bicycle commuting from Brooklyn, NY.


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