After years of shirking commitment, I am taking the plunge with NaBloPoMo.  Seems as good a time as any to start as I have been totally delinquent in posting since getting back from Sweden.  I gotta get back on this horse. 

So a few short things:

1.  I was out watching the marathon in front of my house at 10am when a cavalcade came by, including a convertible with none other than Mayor Bloomberg.  I totally raised my arms in victory and yelled, "MIKE BLOOMBERG!"  And Bloomberg smiled and pointed right at me.  I now realize I should have yelled, "MORE BIKE LANES!" or "MAYOR MIKE 4 LIFE!" or something.  We had a total moment, anyway.

2.  Halloween scares me.  It's not the ghosts, it's the egg-pelting teenagers in my hood.  Also, I realize that the pressure to come up with some clever but not too obscure costume overwhelms me.  I have one non-sexy nurse costume that will probably get trotted out every year until it no longer fits.    

3.  I am no longer eating sugar.  More on that later.

I'm posting a press release here because the guy asked very, very nicely.  The friend of a friend actually went to the trouble of reading my latest blog post and spelling my name right.  In fact, I know nothing about the cause and I'm only posting to spite all of those PR people who spam me with irrelevant crap.  I'd donate some sweets myself if I were going to be in town, but I'm not going to.  My cardamom buns, which I must write up for you when I have a free moment NEVER, would totally win.

---

Please join The City Reliquary Saturday for The 1st Annual Havemeyer Sugar Sweets Festival.

A bake sale to benefit The City Reliquary, the Festival will also feature family-friendly baking demonstrations and competitions to determine New York 's best amateur baked goods.

When: October 10, 2009, 12-6pm

Where: Havemeyer and Grand Street

About The City Reliquary

The Reliquary is one of New York's most unique cultural institutions.   An all-volunteer museum and civic organization, The Reliquary celebrates the small and often overlooked aspects of New York City .   It is also a community organization that promotes civic responsibility. The Reliquary achieves this goal with a wonderful mix of exhibits and programming.  They:

* Collect and display everything from the original 2nd Avenue Deli sign to geological samples of our city's soil.

* Stage exhibits by local artists, historians, and public school students.

* Host block parties and bike rides that promote civic engagement and appreciation of New York 's past and present.

You can learn more at http://www.cityreliquary.org

And, we are still looking for treats to sell at The Festival.  If you want to donate baked goods, please contact Jeff Tancil at jtancil@yahoo.com or 347-307-6474.

Life in New York has been completely, decidedly, mercilessly kicking my ass.  Ugh. Between work and trying to get back in shape, I've had no time or energy to write.  If you want to know what the difference is between life in New York and life in Stockholm, that's it in a nutshell.  New York eats time, devours it, snorts it up until, all of a sudden, you have been living here for ten years and you've only had one failure of a relationship in your whole life and the most expensive thing you own is your mattress which, by the way, needs to be replaced because of the single lonesome dip in its saggy center.

Ahem.

And the cherry on this bloody cake is that my Swedish bicycle got stolen last Saturday.



Here we were in happier times, riding the ferry over to Fårö.  That pannier on the side was lent to me by a sweet kid at the bike rental spot next to the ferry from Nynashamn who let me borrow it for free for a week, with only my word to guarantee that I would return it.

I originally bought the bike thinking I would sell it at the end of my time in Sweden, but I wanted to bring it back with me.  Alas, I knew she was too pretty to stay with me long in New York. 



Bike Snob says you should really leave details about how your bike was stolen as a service to others in New York.  I was reluctant to do so in my Craigslist posting, but I think I can say a bit more here.

I'd been leaving the bike in our apartment hallway because I didn't want to have to haul it up and down the stairs everyday.  I always locked it to itself, but I didn't lock it to anything in the hall because there was nothing to lock it to.  (This despite the fact that my friend Mike gave me a handful of rules when I started cycling, one of which was to ALWAYS lock your bike to something, even in your house.)

My friend Dom came over for lunch and left my house at about 4:30pm.  That's when I showed him my Swedish bike in the hall, locked the gate behind him and closed our front door. 

Later that evening, I heard a noise, some kind of metallic noise, and my heart literally skipped a beat.  My heart just squeezed for a second.  I don't know why, but I thought, "Somebody's stealing my bike!"  I looked out the window and saw a guy rolling a bike away.  I didn't think it looked like my bike, and he was rolling it away so I figured it couldn't be mine since I had locked it to itself.

Then, at about 9pm, I went downstairs just to check on it, and my bike was gone.  GONE.  I felt a little panicked. I went and checked our front door -- totally unlocked.  I knocked on my neighbors' door to tell them what had happened.

Turns out that they had had their toilet fixed just an hour before and the guy left the door open and unlocked.  We have two doors, a wrought iron gate door and an inner regular wooden door.  Often, my downstairs neighbor would leave the wooden door open but the gate locked.  I had been meaning to talk to them about closing the inside door so people wouldn't be able to scope out my bike, but I hadn't gotten to it yet.  (In case anyone's casing my place, we are now on total lockdown, so fuck off.) 

So maybe the guy fixing the toilet took it, though my neighbors don't think so.  Or maybe someone had been casing my place for a while, waiting for an opportunity to come in and snatch it.  I don't know if I'll ever know. 

Now I'm keeping my eyes peeled for my bike, which is quite distinctive looking -- for sure nobody else in New York has this bike.  Or it's extremely unlikely, because the only way it would have come over is if it got boxed and dragged onto a plane the way mine did.  I have a couple of parts for it in my house which I can't bring myself to throw out, so I feel a little bit like Prince Charming waiting for Cinderella to reclaim her glass slipper. 

Of course I'm mad that someone robbed me while everyone was home, and I'm pretty embarrassed, but I'm mostly pissed at myself for not heeding Mike's advice about locking the bike up inside.  I was too city to bike around Gotland alone, and maybe now I'm too soft to be vigilant enough for New York.

I mean, it's not that I was so attached to the thing, but it was maybe the third most expensive possession I've ever purchased, especially if you include the extra fee I had to pay to get it on the plane and all the accoutrements I tricked it out with.

I went and filed a report with the police, who happen to be practically across the street from my house, but I don't have much hope.  If I see someone on it, I am totally pushing them off.  I don't care if they stole it or if they just bought it off someone.  That's MY BIKE and I want to hurt someone. 

Some part of me wonders if Ice-T, my Brooklyn bike, put a hit out on the pretty Swede because I had been totally neglecting him.  I will say that Ice-T is slower and heavier, but probably a lot better for my shoulders in terms of symmetry, so that's a silver lining.  Still, I am trying to be Buddhist and practice some detachment over the whole thing.  Considering the fact that I met three people at a party that night who had had their bikes stolen in the last three weeks, I suggest you do the same. 

So...can someone remind me why I live here again?

Forgive my absence.

Coming back to New York from Stockholm is a little like drinking the finest champagne while sticking your leg in a meat grinder. 

It's been glorious -- a perfect picnic with friends at Governor's Island, a tête-à-tête promenade up the High Line, tacos, buying running shoes at 8:30pm because I needed them and because I can, a grand BLT party with 25 pounds of bacon, kick ass tomatoes and four kinds of homemade mayo at Winnie's. 

But the onslaught to the senses is also overwhelming after quiet, clean Stockholm.  The noise, the traffic, the unexpected street tar that ruined my sneaks (hence the need to buy a new pair), the way you can regret opening your mouth to stick a piece of chewing gum in if you're walking down the wrong block.

To go from the land of lagom -- where life is engineered to be in the middle, not too high, not too low -- to New York, the land of Ultimate XXXXtremes! is kicking me in my callous-free gonads.  I know I've got to get with the program or New York will kick me out.  And I'm sure I'll get there.  I just need a little adjustment period.

In the meantime, I just want to say: FUUUUUUUUCK!!!  MY FOOOOOOOT!

Kära raring,

Ursäkta. Min svenska är inte så bra, men jag vill prova berätta dig detta på ditt språk.

Imorgon flyger jag till New York.  Det är jätte, jätte konstigt.  Manniskorna har frågat till mig: Hur känner du dig?  Är du trist? Glad? Ser du fram emot åka hem? 

Och sanningen är att jag är alla de.

Jag kan klyfta min tid här inte bara med årstiderna, men också med blommorna.  Krokusarna var här när jag var ensam, pionerna märkt när jag förändrade, syrenerna var när jag blev kär i dig.  

Nu är hosten på luften.  Bruna blad är virvlande och gömmer sig bakom cykelhjulen.  Kallt vinden blåser en flickas blå klänning ut och inne, som en simmande manet.  
 
Kan man älska två samtidigt?  Ja, tror jag.  Återvänder jag till New York med ett svullet hjärta -- det är full av glädje och vemod, minne och hopp, erfarenheten och undrar. 

Min svenska lärare lärde mig en bland favorit finsk idiom: "Oma maa mansikka, muu maa mustikka." Den betyder "Hemland jordgubb, annat land blåbär," eller "Borta bra, hemma bäst."  Om New York är min jordgubbland, kan du vara mitt smultronställe.  Jag kommer att sakna dig så jätte mycket...Jag kommer tillbaka, jag lovar.  En dag, vi kan börja var vi slutade.

Puss och kram,
Ganda

August is kräftskiva (crayfish party) month in Sweden!  I'd really been hoping to get an invite to a crayfish party, and my friends Joy and Otto came through with a traditionally debaucherous weekend in the country.

A little background: back in the day, you used to only be allowed to fish for kräftor, or crayfish, in August.  That meant one month of furiously scarfing crayfish as an excuse to get drunk. 

These days, crayfish are a popular menu item in Sweden all year long -- you can get them already peeled in salads, mixed with mayonnaise on toast, etc.  You can also buy frozen ones from the supermarket -- those mostly come from Turkey and China.  In August, kräftskiva-style whole crayfish can be purchased from any supermarket seafood counter.  For the party, we were instructed to get fresh Swedish crawfish, which are cooked in salt and copious amounts of dill. 

The mudbugs are eaten cold, cracked open with hands and teeth.  Every guest was given a skinny little crayfish knife to dig meat out of the slim claws.  By the end of the night, you've got cuts all over your hands, but the general idea is to get drunk enough to stop noticing.

Fixings included white toast with butter and caraway cheese, as well as a creamy västerbottenpaj, a sort of quiche made with Västerbotten cheese, a sharp, hard cheese from the north of Sweden.  Joy also got this AMAZING strawberry meringue cake from Lux Dessert and Chocolate -- feather-light fluff on the thinnest layer of sponge with a strawberry puree stripe down the middle.  It is what My Little Pony angels eat in heaven.

Besides the crayfish, the other star of the show is the snaps, the Swedish national liquor which I have totally come to develop a taste for.  It's an aquavit flavored with caraway, fennel and anise flavors.  I think O.P. may have elbowed Hallands Fläder out as my favorite snaps. 

Crayfish parties, and generally all Swedish drinking festivities like Midsummer and sour herring parties, offer opportunities to break out Sweden's numerous drinking songs, which all seem to be about drinking and lack of women.  I haven't been here long enough to make commentary about the drinking habits of Swedes.  Actually, I haven't been drinking with Swedes often enough to make any of my sweeping generalizations.  But I will say that the whole singing and drinking thing is one of the most charming parts of Swedish culture. The only song I sort of know is Helan Går, but Joy and Otto printed out a little handbook with about 30 different tunes.  

Crayfish are a lot of work for a little meat.  And every time you sing a song, you drink some snaps.  We didn't sing all 30 songs, but we got through a great deal of them. Small amount of protein + large amount of snaps = 12 very quickly drunk people.

This was really only the second time I've been really drunk in Sweden, and I really could have used my Drunk Guard iPhone app again.  The next morning I woke up in a bit of a haze, having passed out on the couch with my glasses still on.  A few choice bits I remember:

• Naked wood-fired sauna followed by skinny dipping in the cold sea.
• At around 1 a.m., we had hot dogs and chips for vikning, which is the Swedish word for post-drinking snacks.  Useful meal, useful word.
  
• I did my first ever keg stand over the mini-Heineken keg.  My frat ho fantasy has finally been realized.
  

I am totally having a kräftskiva in Brooklyn next summer.  PAR-TAY!

View Gotland and Fårö by bike in a larger map

I'm back early.  Actually, I've been back for a few days now.  Gotland was a bust.  I spent the whole ride listening to podcasts of This American Life, which was great, except when I was riding on the 90km/hr highway while listening to the story of the kid who hit and killed a cyclist.  It also wasn't so great when I was riding through the forest in Fårö (which, if movies have taught me anything, is always full of axe murderers) while listening to the story of the Iraq vet who sliced up his girlfriend and her grandma.

And maybe I felt a twinge of recognition when I was battling the wind, carrying way too much stuff in my panniers, going 9km/hour and playing chicken with the thunderstorms while listening to Shalom Auslander say, "I ruin vacations.  That's just what I do."

There were several points during the ride when I looked at Gotlandsleden, the official island bicycle path, and thought, "Aw HELLS no," and turned right back around.  Like the ride up to the Hall-Hangvars nature reserve, which was an all gravel road leading into the forest (which, we've already established, is always filled with maniacs and escaped convicts).

Don't get me wrong, it wasn't all bad.  It was just lonely.  Every time I was riding for long stretches, my thoughts alternated between, "Wow, this place is so peaceful" and "OMG, I am going to get caught in the rain with a flat tire in between one empty town and another empty town and not have enough water and I'll dehydrate and drink my own urine, which will make me so delirious and weak that I will get hit by a car at dusk when there are no lights on the road and I'll be dumped in the forest where adorable Swedish deer will pick my bones clean and if I'm lucky, the battery on my cell phone will last long enough so that they can trace my remains via GPS." 

I am way too city to go cycling through the country alone.

But if you're going to cycle around Gotland, here are my quick tips:

• I stayed in Visby for two nights, then one night each in Stenkyrka, then Bunge, then Fårö, then back to Visby via bus.  I probably could have gone longer distances between, but I'm glad I didn't because when the wind was blowing against me, boy was it hard to pedal to the next stop.  Stenkyrka Mejeri and Fårögården were the best bed and breakfasts, affordable and pretty.  Ihrebadens Vandrarhem would have been a good alternative to Stenkyrka because they have a slice of beach looking up at the Hall-Hangvars Naturreservet coastline. 
  
• Best eats were the fantastic fish soup and saffranspannkaka (a sort of saffron rice pudding pancake) with salmbärssylt (jam made of blackberry-like berries native to Gotland) and vispgrädde (whipped cream) at Bakfickan, the färskost (cream cheese) with bread and buttery bullar at Rute Stenugnsbageri, which is in the middle of fucking nowhere.  Smoked shrimp with saffron aioli at Lickershamnskrogen made for a pretty good seaside shack snack, too.
  







• Also, eat anything from Sylvis Döttrar.  I ate three bullar there in one day -- a buttery cardamom braided bun, a vanilla custard bun with raspberry jam and this vanilla custard filled bombolona thingie.  ZOMFG.  If I hadn't been bored out of my gourd, I could have stayed another two days and just eaten bullar, breakfast, lunch and dinner.
  



• The marshy eastern island of Furillen is like being on the moon -- chalk gravel roads, big chalk basins filled with water.  I thought the island was super creepy feeling, but some people love it.  There is something extremely horror film about it to me.  Fabriken Furillen is an ultra chic little hotel on the little quarry island, and the restaurant is very tastefully-decorated, but it's a major pain in the ass to get there by bicycle.  The roads are in bad condition on Furillen, and the roads leading to Furillen are not lit at all, so if you're staying in Fårösund or Bunge, you need to give yourself 45 minutes before sundown to get back to your sleeping place. This was also the place I first encountered these insane, alien Swedish mosquitoes which bit me THROUGH MY KNEE HIGH SOCKS.  For me, Furillen is missable.  I couldn't pedal away fast enough.
• If you ask me, the Lummelunda Cave is not worth the 100 SEK.  It's a ten minute dramatization movie, followed by a talky tour that's a bit anti-climactic because the stalactites/stalagmites are not that impressive.
• Loved Fårö, which is a more manageable size, with really pretty coasts and plenty of picturesque scenery.  It is what I pictured Gotland to be like.
  
• Pack light!  Next time I do one of these bike tours, I'm either going to only do the kind where someone shuttles your luggage for you from hotel to hotel or I'm going to bring just two of each article of clothing.  I had a "DUH!" moment when I realized early on that I really didn't need to lug both of my heavy U-locks around on an island you can only get to by three-hour ferry.  During a more frustrating moment when I couldn't board the bus back to Visby, I came very close to chucking everything.  Also, I made the mistake of riding out somewhere and riding back against the wind.  I think it is important to only ride in one direction, forward towards your next destination -- otherwise, you wear yourself out unnecessarily.
  
• You don't always have to take Gotlandsleden.  Sometimes, the fastest and most convenient way to go is on the main road.  Between Stenkyrka and Bunge, I took 149 and 148 all the way.  You have to be careful of the speeding cars and trailers, but it's doable and saves a lot of time if you're not prepared to ride for many hours.
• If you are planning to take the bus, you should know that you CAN take your bike on the bus for an additional cost of 40 SEK -- there are rack spaces on the back of the bus.  HOWEVER, they only allow two bikes per bus, so if the rack is full, you are SOL, my friend.  I found myself in that sitch and tried to ride all the way back to Visby from Fårö, but my legs and soul were too tired.  I wound up catching a later bus in Lärbro and totally riding like the devil to catch the ferry back to Nynäshamn, where I was the last person they held the boat for before shutting the trap doors.  And maybe that was the problem -- I spent so much of the vacation hurrying to the next stop, trying to beat the rain, trying to beat the wind, trying to beat the sunlight, that it was hard to just enjoy being there.  But if you are not as neurotic as I am, you might have a better time.
  

I'm about to go on vacation!  There, I said it.  One week, possibly two weeks without my computer.  That means I'm dropping a cover over this site and I'll be back in a week or two.  I will bring the iPhone so I can use the map function (and possibly Twitter), but that's it!  It'll be me, my bicycle, a Swedish island in the Baltic Sea called Gotland, and the crazy spiral of my mind which I will attempt to hypnotize with physical activity.  It might rain, a lot, but I'm trying to nut up about it.

It's early August in Sweden and that means everyone has been on vacation for the last few weeks.  I get tons of auto-replies that say, "Jag är på semester" ("I am on vacation").  I even received one auto-reply with the subject "Paraplydrinkar" ("Umbrella drinks")!

You American readers know, of course, that it is practically verboten for an American to actually admit in their auto-reply that we are on vacation.  Instead, we say something purposefully vague like, "I am out of the office until August 3" or even "I am working out of the office". 

Whenever I tell a Swede that we would never dare say that we're on vacation, they ogle the crazy on my face and ask, "But why?"  And I don't know why.  Why are we Americans so ashamed of vacation?  Would it be such a terrible thing to admit that we are taking time off from work?  I would like to propose a few different auto-replies for your next non-work period. 

---

Subject:  No deadbeat dad

Hi!  Thanks for your e-mail.

I am taking five days to play catch with my son who thinks that I live at work. 

Do you remember what your dad looks like?

---

Subject: Moo!

I will be gone for the next three weeks so I don't have to pump breast milk in the bathroom on my lunch break.

Between breastfeeding my child and continuing my career, I choose both.  What do you think of that?

--- 

Subject: I work hard so they don't have to 

I will be in California for a week visiting my parents, whom I get to see once a year.  I will read your e-mail on the five-hour red-eye flight home.

---

Subject: Couples therapy

Thank you for getting in touch.

I am at home this week reconnecting with my workaholic wife, but I am clearing out my inbox once a day so I don't have to go through 1500 emails when I am back in the office. 

When I come back, the world will still be turning, I promise.

---

Subject: Umbrella drinks! 

I am sitting on a beach with an umbrella drink in hand.  Don't be mad at me. You will be on vacation soon, too.  Then you can rub it in my face.  And we can all have a good laugh about how nice it is to not have to pretend that the only thing we care about in life is work.

Cheers!

 

 

On the rarest of occasions, it is possible to take a bite of something and taste an entire lifetime in it.

Sometimes it's an animal's life, very straightforward.  Sometimes it is the chef's life you taste, his memory, her touch.  Sometimes it's your own life. 

I can count the number of times in this has happened to me.  The first time was when my whole clan went to visit my cousin when she was in college.  We ordered takeout from the Thai House on Market St. in San Francisco.  My father, whose brother did the electrician work for many of the Thai restaurants on that side of the bay, popped his head into the kitchen and asked to get our food extra Thai-style.  We ate sitting on the floor of my cousin's railroad apartment in the Mission.  What I remember was a tom yum goong, so pungent and tangy, topped with blistered chilies that singed and sang.  That night, I tasted my family's life, in a moment when we were all together, just a few years before we dispersed around the nation.  I'll never forget that meal.  We still talk about it to this day.

Another time was a meal I had with my then boyfriend at Nobu.  My boyfriend wanted to impress me.  I was mostly ungrateful and unimpressed.  Until, that is, the final course came out -- a small bowl of broth, all golden clarity and tasting of the sea.  It had a few small pieces of pink and white fish, poached to perfection, with just a few sprouts of mitsuba floating about.  It made my boyfriend cry.  It made me a little teary.  We looked at each other.  We looked at the chef.  The chef nodded knowingly.  I tasted the ocean in that bowl, the Pacific ocean, the history of kelp, the bright sun that warms the upper reaches of the water. 

And then there was Mathias Dahlgren's Matsalen.  Francis and I decided to go and treat ourselves one night when he was in Stockholm.  My appetite was ample.  The little teasers had been clever and delicious -- a seascape made of paper-thin, dehydrated cauliflower floating like coral in a glass of sesame seeds, a sail of soy-seaweed paper, a crisp sheet of beet.  And there it was -- a tiny bun warmed on a charred piece of wood.  The waitress gave some story about this bun being Mathias's first memory as a child.  Yeah, yeah, I thought.  Just lemme at it.

The smell -- coal, fire, dough.  Smooth, round bread against the wavy grain of the wood pedestal.  I popped it into my mouth and clamped down.  And -- was that a gob of butter?  A little salty, and then the dough was sweet.  Creamy.  Soft.  Oh god.  My blood vessels dilated up to the roots of my hair.  There it was -- recognition.  The chef's life in a bite.

The tasting menu at Mathias Dahlgren was one of the best meals of my life.  Seriously.  Moments of true bliss followed as Francis and I chuckled our way giddily through the seven-course dinner.  A little tile of ling, a cod-like fish, and the daintiest scallop, seared with just a smack of heat, was tender and sensual against a masculine garlic puree and palate-cleansing parsley sprouts.  It lit Francis's face up.  Bling!

Raw tongue lengths of coral-colored salmon folded over bright orange whitefish roe, nestling against a creamy bit of artichoke puree and emerald green Gotland asparagus tips, all moistened by a touch of browned butter and adorned with lilac chive flowers. This dish was absolutely feminine, encompassing the delicate complexity of spring, all fertility and sensuality.  It was my favorite dish that night.

Langoustine wrapped in -- was that pure pork fat? -- pork cheek, served with an astringent lovage-pea puree.  A pumpkin porridge topped with parmesan cheese, black truffles and pumpkin seeds -- simple and earthy.  Rich saddle of lamb with fried sweetbreads were decadent but played up the complex flavors of the meats themselves.   

But over the next few days, I realized that another dish was haunting me, continues to haunt me.  It was so deceptively simple, so audacious.  A rectangle of their crustless pillowy sourdough was stuffed with cow's milk cheese, pan fried on all sides in olive oil and touched with honey, sea salt and black pepper.  The grilled cheese (because, come on, it's a grilled cheese) came with a thin, long shot glass of fermented birch sap, a lightly fizzy, lightly alcoholic translucent white beverage.  Epic sagas could be written about the flavors that came forth with every alternating bite and sip.  Honey + salt. Milk + yeast.  Tree + animal.  Age + brew.  Is it too soon to taste that again?  Will I ever taste anything like that again?  I wonder.

A visitor I had recently made the observation that Swedes wear the same standard H&M clothes that we do in the States, but they style them much more interestingly.  The same could be said of food here -- the Swedish sense of style is in play here.  Matsalen doesn't have an infinite palette of flavors.  But what it has, it uses gracefully, bringing out nuance.

Matsalen, located in the Grand Hotel, looks out on the dock where Waxholmsbolaget ferries drop anchor when they're in the Stockholm harbor.  The boats come and go over the course of a dinner as the cloudy sky fades from gray to navy.  It's a really quintessentially Stockholm view.  Inside, the dining room is chalky but warm, done up in complementary shades of blue gray, beige and white, echoing the colors of the boats and their headlights against the changing evening backdrop.  It's elegant, not stuffy, mimicking the hushed reverence and charm of a seaside chapel.

Matbaren, the more casual restaurant next door, offers a few of the same dishes on Matsalen's a la carte menu, though the food a little less interesting.  The room is a lot more casual, with wood walls, tall stools, Poul Henningsen light fixtures and a long, curved dining bar.  The unmissable: the horseradish herring was fucking unbelievable -- a cream herring, pickled but not tart, with a row of adorable, halved boiled fresh potatoes and a rope of bleak roe.  A few purple rings of onion add color and zest; underneath the stole of cream and above the brown butter slip, the herring hides tiny segments of lemon which burst with the bleak roe at precisely the right moments.  Make sure to also order a frosty shot of Mathias Dahlgren's own double-biting horseradish snaps.

And check out this dessert: a chilled 50s martini glass is filled with plain yogurt, with a soft ball of peach sorbet plopped in the middle (had to be robot-couped, it was so fine and smooth).  Around the glass, a ring of toasted, skinned whole hazelnuts (which have become a regular staple in my diet) circle the sorbet, with a little honey and a halo of fruity olive oil, topped with a pinch of sea salt.  Two temperatures, several textures, and big, bouffanty flavors.  I have got to make it for a dinner party sometime.

I will say that it's a good place to take yourself on a date.  I wasn't the only solo diner in there tonight -- two guys on the other side of the bar were also eating alone, though I think I totally out-ate them both.   

I've been considering going to Matsalen one more time before I go home, but I'm not sure I want to.  The experience was so sublime, so moving in my mind that I dare not disturb the dream.  But you can bet that the next time I'm back in Stockholm, I'll have a reservation there.

Matsalen
Mathias Dahlgren
Södra Blasieholmshamnen 6
T-bana: Kungsträdgården
Matsalen tasting menu: 1500 SEK (about $200).  Reservations required.
Matbaren 3 courses with 3 drinks: about 1000 SEK (about $130).  Reservations recommended, but there's supposedly always room for a drop-in.

Of all the things I will miss about Sweden when I leave, perhaps at the top of the list will be my solitary weekend bicycle excursions.  There are lots of beautiful places around Stockholm that are very accessible via safe, cordoned off bike lanes.  You could use City Bikes for some of these trips, but then you have to watch the time and make sure you don't keep your bike out for more than three hours, which may mean stopping to switch bikes at the furthest station.

Stockholm is not hilly like San Francisco, but it's not completely flat like Copenhagen, either.  There are a few bridges that make you earn your bullar.  But the best part about these rides is that you can feel very virtuous about the caloric treat you pack with you for the ride.

Most of these rides are 20 minutes to an hour from the city center, depending on how fast you ride.  Keep in mind that these are really amateur rides, less for the person who owns spandex shorts and more for the person who likes to ride around with their mouth open.

What you'll need: 

Get a cykelkarta, or bike map, which you can pick up at any bike shop around town. You can probably also get one from the Tourist Center across the street from NK at Hamngatan 27.

Lights are helpful at night.  While you won't need them much around the summer solstice, you will need them as it gets darker out.  I also always wear a helmet.  I don't care if it doesn't look good.  I don't want my Mae to have to put my melon back together.

Provisions: If you want to buy a sandwich for the road (never a bad idea), my absolute favorite place to pick up a bicycle bag lunch is Thelins Konditori.  There are a couple of Thelins around town, but the one I go to is on Kungsholmen at S:t Eriksgatan 43.  I always get the vegetarian sandwich, which has fresh cream cheese, shredded carrots, peppers and lettuce on fruit and nut bread, which features huge hunks of dried apricot and walnuts.  It's the best bicycling sandwich ever.  Add a vanilla cream cardamom bun or a chocolate dipped meringue for a little extra sugar boost. 

1. Drottningholms Slott
Ride time: 45 - 75 min.


How to get there:
From the north: Take S:t Eriksgatan into Kungsholmen, make a right on Drottningholmsvägen and take it all the way west, cross a bridge, pass Alvik and Stora Mossen.  Make a left at the roundabout at Brommaplan, and keep following Drottningholmsvägen until you get to Nockebybron, another bridge.  Take it across two bodies of water into Ekerö.

From the south: Take Västerbron north into Kungsholmen, make a left on Drottningholmsvägen, then follow the rest of the directions above.

Drottningholm is the actual residence of the Swedish royal family.  You could go inside and check out the part that's open to the public, but then you have to pay an entrance fee.  There's some kind of Chinese pavilion here that you could also pay to gawk at. But the opulent (well, as opulent as Sweden gets) grounds offer plenty to look at.  It's modeled after French palaces from the 1600s or something -- I don't know, you can read about it on their website.  I'm no architecture nerd.



Swans grace the water lily ponds.  They dip their long necks into the water to bob for fish, their tails jiggling upright like little floating island meringues.

This is a lovely spot to picnic when the weather holds.  Your non-cycling friends can take the ferry from Stadshuskajen at Stockholm City Hall, which is probably just as enjoyable as taking the bicycle.

Drottningholms Slott
Ekerö

2. Ulriksdals Slott
Ride time: 30-45 min.

How to get there:
Take Hagastråket north, all along the west side of Hagaparken.  Ride until you reach the top of the Brunnsviken body of water, then turn right along the water along Bergshamnavägen. Keep your eyes out for the signs to Ulriksdals Slott.  There is one little tunnel that you turn left into to reach the Ulriksdals complex.  Ride along the narrow path, make a left and go up a hill until you reach the main entrance for Ulriksdals.

Yes, another castle!  Plenty of little gravel paths and wood bridges to ride over.  But it's a little off the beaten path, so if you go in July, there is actually a chance that no one else will be around.  There's also a dreamy little set of hedge-enclosed gardens that would be perfect to sit and make out in if  you were a Swedish princess sneaking around with the stable boy (or your personal trainer).
 


But this one has something better -- a pick-your-own stuff garden.  Rows of various potatoes, green beans and onions, as well as artichokes, giant cardoons, pretty flowers and tons of other stuff which you can cut with a little knife to put into the baskets they provide.  Chic!





If you're a city girl like me, you'll get a kick out of picking your own potatoes.  It's magic!  You pull up these big leafy plants and there are freaking POTATOES in the dirt.  Lots of 'em.  In all sizes.  They're as alien as giant maggots but they're crazy delicious. 





The cafe has a classic Swedish fika spread -- pies, cakes, meringues and more, with plenty of hot coffee to help you pep up for the ride back.

 

Ulriksdals Slott
Solna

3. Skogskyrkogården
30 - 60 min., depending on where you start

How to get there:
Take Götgatan through Södermalm.  Cross the bridge and keep going straight, past Globen.  Go under the freeway and to the left to get to Skogskyrkogården.

Skogskyrkogården is on the UNESCO World Heritage list.  It's a breathtakingly beautiful and huge cemetery that doesn't feel at all like a cemetery.  When you bike in, all you see is a huge cross at the end of a long slope of grass.

The place was designed with the mourning experience in mind.  A long walk (or drive) takes you up to the chapel entrance, so you can prepare yourself mentally and emotionally for a funeral.  Once you exit the chapel, you're greeted with the humble splendor of the tall evergreen woods.  The small, carved headstones are like rows of dotted lines throughout the ancient woods.  The trees are magnificent.  They tower over the little planted flowers on the graves as if to say hello, we know you're mourning, but remember that life is beautiful, and it goes on.



Greta Garbo is buried here. Her earth-toned tombstone has what I presume is her signature etched in gold. She has her own little plot of grass, surrounded by stepping stones and a red carpet of flowers, just behind the Skogskapellet, or Woods Chapel.

 

I ate my smörgås up in the meditation grove, which is a little square at the top of a hill with a gorgeous view of the woods and chapel. It felt a tiny bit weird eating in a place called the meditation grove, but I promise you that I concentrated respectfully as I ate. Anyway, I think it would be weirder to drop crumbs on someone's grave.

 



I highly recommend listening to the Choir of King's College as you cycle around -- that's about as close to Christian divinity as I'll ever get.

I hear this is the place to be on Allhelgonadagen, or All Saints Day, when the entire forest glows with candles on every grave.

Skogskyrkogården
South Stockholm, near Gamla Enskede

4. Millesgården
Ride time: 20-45 min.

How to get there:
Ride east on Odengatan until you get to Valhallavägen.  Turn right and ride past the Tekniska Hogskolan until you reach Stockholms Stadion.  Make a left onto Lidingövägen.  Follow the bike path until you reach the water.  There's a tricky bit here where you have to ride down to the Silja ferry terminal, and it seems like you're going the wrong way, but stay on the path.  Go straight until you see the sign for Lidingö.  Follow the path to the very straight and easy low foot and bicycle bridge.  Once you get over the bridge, you have to find your way to the top of the hill.  I took the path to the right down until I reached a staircase, then I walked my bike up.  Then I walked up the steep paths from there.  There is probably an easier way to the top, but I didn't find it.



Millesgården was the home of sculptor Carl Milles, his wife Olga and his sister Ruth during the first half of the 1900s.  It's a huge garden at the top of a hill with lots of Milles' whimsical sculptures, big and small, pretty flowers and tinkling fountains.  The sculpture's not really to my taste, but it is a really peaceful, beautiful spot for just soaking in the sun and looking at the ferries docked on the other side of the water. 

The place is enormous, built on a really grand scale, especially by Swedish standards.  The house sits higher than most places in Stockholm, overlooking the Lilla Värtan body of water between Lidingö and Norrmalm. 

The house is filled with Milles' collection of Greek artifacts, as well as art deco light fixtures, Swedish woodwork and pretty tiling.  But the best thing about the place is the way the air flows through the house.  You walk from room to room and the air just moves with you, filling the place with a lightness, a freshness that is incomparable on a hot day.  The feng shui must be off the hook.











Statues on the terrace garden play at eye level.  The sculptures in the main garden face out towards the world on giant pedestals, glorious in the sun and towering over the city.







The adjoining Bistro Rosenterrassen is pretty good, too.  I had a nice pear tårta and a bottle of fizzy water in the cosmos-filled garden.  They serve bullar from the Milles' own recipe.  They looked a little boring to me, so I went for cake instead, but they were offering a special deal with your entrance fee -- 90 SEK to enter the garden, and only 10 SEK more for a coffee and bulle.

Lidingö is one of the prettiest places around town, so it's nice just to ride along the edge of the island at the foot of the cliff, too.

Millesgården
Lidingö

5. Norra Begravningsplats
Ride time: 15-30 min.

How to get there: Take Torsgatan north until you get to Solnavägen.  Take it up until there is a fork, where you can choose to take Märstastråket.  You can't miss it.

Norra Begravningsplats was a really lovely surprise.  It's off the beaten path and it's barely on the map, though it's quite close to the city.  But once you ride up north this way, you can't miss it.  There are hedges around the edges of the grounds, so you don't really get a sense of what's inside until you actually go in.  It's an enormous cemetery, similar in style to Skogskyrkogården but a little less perfect. 

I met someone tonight who lives in Solna, very close to Norra Begravningsplats.  She said, "There are many gläntor there -- that's quite a romantic Swedish word you should know."  Glänta translates into glade, but what it means is a special spot where the light falls through deciduous trees just so, like in the John Bauer illustration she showed me to explain the word.



In the States, people often place cut bouquets on graves, but I've noticed that in Sweden, everyone plants flowers right in front of the tombstone.  Makes the cemetery a much less gloomy place.  I like the idea of living things growing in a place that marks death.



It's probably not the place to put out a picnic, since there aren't any spots really to do such a thing, but it's a peaceful place to ride around and listen to music in.

Norra Begravningsplatsen
Solna

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I've put them on my map for you here.  And if it's a hot day, I highly recommend riding to Kungsholmens Glassfabrik for some citronglass or polkaglass to cool off after your ride.

Any of you Stockholmers have any suggestions for other day rides?