Results tagged “beef” from eat drink one woman

June 22, 2008
I didn't slave over the computer today and the hours passed so slowly. I may have to start a one hour of computer per weekend day rule. 

So a few quick things:

  • At a dinner party, Winnie's friend Brian mentioned that he likes to drop a bag of PG Tips into his water bottle and drink from it all day -- I tried it, I love it, I'll be doing it all summer.  Enlivens the hydration with light tea flavor and a slow burn caffeine kick all day long. (Winnie, I'm like totally stalking you or something.)
  • Finally picking The Omnivore's Dilemma back up again, which I can only read in short spurts before I get depressed, have to put it down and listen to Mariah Carey to fluff my brain out.  Anyway, one rancher tells Pollan that in his grandfather's time, cows were grass-fed, and therefore took longer to get to slaughter weight.  "Cows were four or five years old at slaughter...Now we get there at fourteen to sixteen months."  Interesting in light of the South Korea beef fight happening, where Koreans will only accept beef that is "younger than 30 months", or 2 1/2 years old, because younger cows are less likely to have mad cow disease.  Fucked up on a few levels -- that we breed cows to bulk up in 1/4 the time (imagine a kid becoming adult-sized by age 5), that mad cow wouldn't be an issue with grass-fed beef, that the bulked-up young 'un is now the preferred choice.
  • Went to Bar Q, loved the food, made me want to go to Annisa.  Fine, the steamed bun with pork is a bite off David Chang, but Anita Lo one ups him by including a few leaves of kimchee and a crunchy swath of crackling on her pork.  Also, bizarrely loved the warm (?) walnut (?) soup (?) with malted rice krispies and a powdery polvorone-like mound.  Polvorones remind me of La Puente.  Eating one is kind of like stuffing a sandcastle in your mouth, a magical sandcastle of nutty sugar. 
And now it's past my bedtime.  Dammit!  See?

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May 14, 2008
PSM-caricature.jpg"There may be some foundation to Indians' accusations of hypocrisy by the West. The United States uses -- or throws away -- 3,770 calories a person each day, according to data from the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization collected in 2001-3, compared with 2,440 calories per person in India. Americans are also the largest per capita consumers in any major economy of the most energy-intensive common food source, beef, the Agriculture Department says."

--"Indians Find U.S. at Fault in Food Cost", New York Times, May 14, 2008*

(image: Pradeep S. Mehta, whom the article refers to as having said, "archly, that the money spent in the United States on liposuction to get rid of fat from excess consumption could be funneled to feed famine victims.")
 
Over a heavenly brunch of fried eggs, Tamarack Hollow bacon, biscuits, roasted asparagus, butter-sauteed fiddlehead ferns and red-eye gravy (fck yeah!) chez Winnie, the subject of the Abstain Project came up. Winnie figured (rightly) that pork is going to be the next to get the axe in my diet, and was encouraging me to get my bacon on while I can.  A few of the brunch attendees asked why I was cutting certain foods out completely, why it wasn't enough to just buy from suppliers like Tamarack Hollow who farm sustainably -- eat it to save it and all that.

I have to admit that I felt a little uncomfortable discussing the project among acquaintances.  I realize it sounds self-righteous asshole-y, and I hope that's not what I've become.  At the time, I gave a half-assed answer that I was more interested in the push and pull of desire and denial, the co-existence of hedonism and conscience -- and that if I just ate good meat from good producers, I wouldn't have anything to write about. 

But there's more to it than that.   I feel myself pulling away from, not just the culture of excess, but also of access.  It's so easy to buy food, to eat too much food, to waste food, to obsess over food.  Here in New York, you can get anything you want at almost any time of day, from barely legal mangosteen to runny reblochon to guarana soda to dorowat over injera to Barossa Valley shiraz.  Everything's special; nothing's special.

And I think my appetite and curiosity for food has disappeared because food was becoming straight consumption, detached from its communal, human, personal aspects.  Venturing to some Queens outpost to judge a meal by taste alone, eating a cheese with a fancy name but no back story, choosing a new honey vendor over my standard, known, beloved honey purveyor for the sake of reporting -- yawn.

What I do treasure now are meals at home with friends or family, like that brunch at Winnie's, less for the content of the plate than for the company and the kind of chatter you make when you break bread.  Meals in are so rare for me these days.  I'll take relaxed company over a quesadilla with canned black beans and pre-shredded cheese mix over a loud night at the -estest (latest! greatest! best!) spot in town.

Ceci n'est pas un statement.

Still, I keep putting off the pork ban.  I keep telling myself that once I finish that fennel pollen sausage in the freezer, and that kale soup with merguez**, and the jamon iberico de bellota I've been saving, I'll give up the pig.  And, really, bacon I could live without.  But there are so many porcine products I'd keep ahead of bacon -- Thai-style fried pork jerky, pork gyoza or mandoo, Italian sausage...

*Also, check out the comparison consuming chart.  1,674 pounds of corn per person in 2006!!  Children of the corn indeed!

**Remembered while heating up my soup that merguez is lamb.  Which is sort of out by default, and I figure should go out with the other mammalian meat.
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May 6, 2008
coffeeteameat.jpgPhoto from the New York Times: Coffee, Tea or Meat?

It's amazing what you can learn when you sign up for a news alert.  I've been getting daily updates on beef media and I'm fascinated by a bovine brouhaha being stirred up in South Korea.

According to this Voice of America article, South Korea banned U.S. beef imports in 2003 after a U.S. cow died of sponge brain.  Just last month, South Korean president Lee Myung-bak promised our Prez Bush that he'd lift the ban, noting that the U.N. says the beef is safe and so does Bush.  (Bush, of course, showing conservative compassion as number one advocate for the health and safety of the South Koreans.)  Lee's peeps ain't havin' it, though; protests have ensued, with government officials being challenged to "test-eat" imported beef on TV (officials have refused, so far). VOA says last week, "a prominent South Korean TV documentary asserted Koreans possess a special gene that makes them more susceptible to mad cow disease."  Wha?

But apparently, we're talking big Won here -- according to this article, before the ban, South Korea was the third largest market for U.S. beef imports in the world, to the tune of $850 million.  Tiny South Korea!  Third largest!  That's a lot of BBQ.

If kalbi, bulgogi, bibimbap, and sul long tang weren't evidence enough that Koreans take their beef seriously, check this out: students held candlelight vigils in protest of lifting the beef ban.  Can you imagine U.S. teenagers getting that up in arms over, oh, I don't know, salmonella in their dorm food?

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April 30, 2008
Tested my abstaining mettle tonight over dinner at Hill Country.  IMO, best thing on the menu there is the moist (read: fatty) beef brisket, obvs off limits to me right now.  I made do with a thick but somewhat dry smoked pork chop, starry with coarse black pepper. Fuchsia pork spare ribs were also a bit dry and stringy but with a nice wood smoke ring.  Sides we chose were variations on warm, milky mush -- defrosted "French cut" green beans swimming in canned mushroom gravy with French fried onions, creamy penne topped with broiled, sunny cheddar, and a chewy shoepeg corn pudding.  I know it's authentic to have bad sides, but I would have welcomed a little freshness.  Also, the Epcot Center-style country band playing downstairs was loud enough to loosen my fillings and digest the pork chop for me.  Grandma's too old for that shit.  By the end of the night, my throat was hoarse from yelling at my pals across the table, my hair was reeking of smoke, and my doggie bag was full of unfinished meat.  I'm not a huge BBQ fan to start with, but I've been to Hill Country three times now and I still gotta say it -- what's the BFD? 
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April 29, 2008

According to this article on L.A.'s hot dog scene, New York is the number one hot dog town in the nation.  Not surprising, right?  Dirty dogs, as my friend Dottie calls them, rule the street corners of Manhattan.  You can get plump dogs slathered in sweet onion sauce at Katz's; you can nosh on snappy kosher franks at the resurrected 2nd Ave. Deli; there are as many riffs on Gray's Papaya as there are on (Original?) Ray's Pizza; if you really want to rub it into atherosclerosis's face, you can always go to Crif Dogs for the disgustingly magical Spicy Redneck*, a bacon-wrapped, deep-fried wiener smothered in chili, coleslaw, and pickled jalapenos to cut the grease.  (I have eaten more of those in my life than I would dare to admit to an insurance investigator.)

I can't say I'm so discerning about hot dogs.  I mean, if it's spiced right, dyed pink and moistened with mustard, what do I care if it's made of tofu instead of cow scraps?  So I don't think I'll miss them too much. 

My favorite dogs are Violet Hill Farms' hot dogs, which I hear they sell from a cart called Dogmatic on Bleecker St. these days.  When I was in Thailand in 2003, I had, believe it or not, fish hot dogs, nitrate-free, which we ate for breakfast with soup and sticky rice.  And they were DELICIOUS.  Wrap your head around that.

In this episode of Radio Lab (my latest obsession), Jad Abumrad talks to a guy at the Fresh Kills landfill who says a core sample uncovered a 10 year old, intact, totally recognizable hot dog.  Our intestines are basically sausage casings, so that's pretty narst.

Here's a little Wonder Showzen lesson on how hot dogs are made:



*Never had it, but had to laugh -- they've also got a bacon-wrapped hot dog covered in kimchee called a Chang.

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April 20, 2008
From the New York Times' Green Issue:

Dashka Slater:
"Pork, lamb and poultry all have their impacts, but beef is undoubtedly the Hummer of the dinner plate."
Michael Pollan:

"Which brings us back to the 'why bother [going green]' question and how we might better answer it. The reasons not to bother are many and compelling, at least to the cheap-energy mind. But let me offer a few admittedly tentative reasons that we might put on the other side of the scale:

If you do bother, you will set an example for other people. If enough other people bother, each one influencing yet another in a chain reaction of behavioral change, markets for all manner of green products and alternative technologies will prosper and expand. (Just look at the market for hybrid cars.) Consciousness will be raised, perhaps even changed: new moral imperatives and new taboos might take root in the culture. Driving an S.U.V. or eating a 24-ounce steak or illuminating your McMansion like an airport runway at night might come to be regarded as outrages to human conscience. Not having things might become cooler than having them. And those who did change the way they live would acquire the moral standing to demand changes in behavior from others -- from other people, other corporations, even other countries."

****

Over Meet the Press this morning, La Doug and I were discussing the awful but not impossible scenario where McCain wins the White House over a fractured Democratic party. 

LA DOUG: I talked to Mark, who was in D.C. when we went from the Clinton administration to the Bush administration.  It went from a sushi town to a steakhouse town overnight.


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April 14, 2008
guanim.jpgThis is a statue of Jao Mae Guan Im, known to the Chinese as Guan Yin which, according to this site, means "Who Contemplates the [Supplicating] Sound of the World".  She's apparently a bodhisattva, the female incarnation of Avalokitesvara, embodiment of compassion.

Growing up, I only knew her as "that statue of a woman in my aunts' houses."  Jao Mae Guan Im was not part of our standard issue Sunday school Buddhism.  First of all, she was a she, and for all the wonderful things Buddhism is, it is not a culture of the feminine divine.  Secondly, she was often distinctly Chinese-looking, standing among swirls of water or curling lotus petals in a sort of Venus on the half-shell tilt into the wind so her long robes and pretty beehive/Crystal Gayle hair combo were permanently aflutter.

Not everyone had shrines to her in their houses,  which made her seem that much more mystical to me.  Those who did worship her had to give up beef.  (This was the only thing I knew about her because, go figure, I only ever seem to remember details about food.) Depending on where you google, her followers believe her cruel father was reincarnated as a cow; since they don't want to eat him, they don't touch beef; the other story is that Guan Im was so compassionate that she was always a vegetarian, even in utero.

Interesting too that it's beef her believers give up, as the cow so often represents matriarchy.  Even the word cow (as opposed to bull or the neutral food term cattle) refers to the female -- how many other animals do we call primarily by the female gender's title?  Not sows, not ewes, not hens, not mares, not bitches.

Here's a fun page on cross-cultural cow lore. 

And in case you've forgotten why corned beef and pastrami got kosher clearance (except when applied in a Swiss-cheesed Reuben): it's the Leviticus-approved combo of cloven hoof + chews the cud.
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April 11, 2008
Number of search results in Google news for downer cows: 462
Number of recipes for ground beef on Allrecipes.com: 1,802
Number of pounds of ground beef in the Beefy PB&J wraps on beefitswhatsfordinner.com: 1

Amount of beef recalled by the Department of Agriculture in February after a hot vid of downer cows was leaked by the Humane Society: 143 million pounds, roughly equivalent in weight to 572 million Whoppers.
Amount of that beef the government had purchased for the National School Lunch Program: 50 million pounds, roughly equivalent in weight to 21 million Peter Luger Porterhouse steaks.
Amount billed to the Chino slaughterhouse for the bad beef: $67.2 million
Amount Sao Paolo, Brazil-based JBS, the world's biggest beef producer, just dropped in cash and stocks to become the biggest American beef producer: $1.12 billion

Year that Uruguay banned feeding or implanting growth hormones in beef cattle: 1978
Year that Argentina banned growth hormones and feeding antibiotics as growth promotants: 2004
Number of years these growth hormones have been used "to help cattle efficiently convert their feed into more lean muscle" in the U.S., according to a Beef Checkoff Fact Sheet: 60 years (and counting!)

My 5 favorite beef dishes:

1.  My dad's signature beef dish -- fatty tri-tip marinated in a citrus soy ginger concoction, grilled to medium rare and served with piquant fish-sauce lime juice garlic chili manna.
2.  Braised short ribs in the French Laundry cookbook style
3.  Any ragù (see below) -- from ground chuck and green peppers to tomato-less meat sauce over pappardelle.
4.  Thai-style boat noodle soup, sweetly fragranced with star anise and cinnamon, with meatballs and stewed beef.
5.  A nice, thin patty cheeseburger with ketchup and mayonnaise, lettuce, tomato and red onion.

Number of awesome looking ragù recipes in the April 2008 issue of Saveur: 6
Number of those ragù recipes that do not call for beef: 1, a Heston Blumenthal-inspired sauce with boneless pork shoulder and, among other things, tarragon, fish sauce, ketchup, and worcestershire, star anise and coriander seeds.

*With apologies to Harper's, of course.



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My name is Ganda. I write about food and bicycle commuting from Brooklyn, NY.


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