Category: Ruminations


Page 15 of 21
May 30, 2005

You Manhattanites can keep your soggy rooftops and crowded little hibachis.  For summer barbecues, Brooklyn's got you beat.  I went to three grillin and chillin festivities this Memorial Day weekend without ever having to leave the big-sky borough. 

R2d2Today, I rolled over to Winnie & Chris's Boerum Hill apartment where Jim was busy deflowering the brand new smoker he bought with Chris.  I followed the pungent trail of mesquite to their airy apartment, where Jim was manning the steadily puffing green R2D2 on the mini-deck out back. 

They broke the smoker in with several racks of dry-rubbed pork spareribs.  "Never put sugar or tomato on the rib rub," Jim said.  "It just burns and turns all black."  Winnie also brined two chickens, dry-rubbed with a cayenne cumin clove blend and lowered the birds into the smoker's roomy cavity.

Rib_2The result?  Tender, spicy, mesquite-infused ribs with a rosy ring of smoke that could give any of those BBQ festival participants a run for their money.  And smoky, juicy chicken that will be incredible sliced cold on tomorrow's salad.  Chris's cinnamon and butter-spiked sweet potato mash cooled our spicy tongues while Winnie's dandelion pea shoot salad with sauteed mushrooms and fiddlehead ferns cleansed our palates. 

IcecreamI'm glad I saved room for our perfect summer dessert of lavender-mint syrup macerated mixed berries with a touch of balsamic vinegar over Ciao Bella vanilla gelato.

Only drawback to our hot fun in the summertime?  I reek like I went in the smoker myself.  T-Bone, the tabby I'm catsitting, wouldn't stop licking my arm when I got home.  I guess even cats love the cue.Chicken

I'm looking forward to smoke-filled weekends with a parade of carcasses -- duck!  oysters!  baby back ribs!  trout!  I'm going to try and find good slaw and baked beans recipes. 

Summer's been coming on slowly this year, but this weekend was an auspicious start.  Jim thought perhaps the dry rub could have used a bit less salt, and the ribs could have stayed in the smoker a smidge longer so the meat would slip off the bone more readily, but hey -- we've got the whole summer to perfect our smoking technique. 

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May 17, 2005

[7:00 p.m., SRIPRAPHAI, 9 members of my extended family pore over the extensive menu.]

MY AUNT: How about duck?

ME: Yeah, sure that sounds great.

MY AUNT: Duck no coming?

ME: What kind of duck?

SIRION: She means DOUG, your roommate!

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May 9, 2005

From the ever fearless and real Gastropoda:

Maybe it’s because the San Francisco Chronicle kicked ass with its series on "The Taking of 167 West 12th Street," but my local paper is filling me with less hometown pride than usual, if you can imagine. Scornful as I am, even I was surprised to spot a headline that essentially read: Nyah, Nyah, Nyah. The estimable Christian Delouvrier is out of a job and the most embarrassing critic in the history of restaurant reviewing is allowed to piss all over him claiming the credit. It’s as if the only way the paper can justify hiring a joke is by holding up a little fanny-pack belt with a notch in it. Time was when the Times would have been more modest, even self-effacing; in both my stints on 43d (sic) Street any mention of the paper in the paper had to be cleared all the way up the command ladder. Now, a full year before he’s scheduled to retire, it’s clear that Al Siegal has left the building. But at least the world has been made safe for martini drinkers at Ducasse.

Mmmkay!

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May 7, 2005

112_1292Check out Daily Gluttony, an L.A. food blog with a great pair of -- uh, I mean, sense of humor.  A quote I'm totally feeling:

I called my parents today when I got home from work. In typical Asian parent style, they asked me if I had eaten dinner already. I said yes. Lie #1. They asked me what I ate. I said rice. Lie #2. They asked "Rice and what?" I said chicken. Lie #3. All lies I tell you! Because #1, I hadn't eaten yet, #2, I wasn't going to eat rice, and #3, I wasn't going to eat chicken. So what, pray tell, did I have for dinner???

You see, I'm not the only over-25 yr old who still has to lie to her parents.

*Link courtesy of Adam

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May 6, 2005

On a totally unrelated topic, I joined Dodgeball a while back and I still only have two friends.  Are any of you on Dodgeball so I can beef up my "friend" list and boost my self-esteem?  I need a prosthetic social life.  Pick me pick me pick me pick me pick me pick me!

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May 2, 2005

This morning I bought my lunch of two hot tamales from a kid hiding inside a dark van with all the shades drawn.  I recognized his orange Coleman coolers of foil-wrapped tamales and large thermoses of hot arroz con leche and champurrado in the shadows of the van.  He's probably the tamale lady's kid.  His scout was up the block, presumably watching for the cops who've been uncompassionately busting the small-time street vendors.

And that's how we roll in Sunset Park.

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April 27, 2005

Ohmygodarah, I love this Brian Bernbaum guy!  Check out the Yokel's Guide to Pure Food & Wine.  Love the caption:

Fennel, rosemary and cashew ‘cheese’ tart with blood orange and pinot blanc dressing. Remember: don’t place your order using ‘finger quotes.’

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April 26, 2005

Two reviews, two very different experiences.  The New York Times' Frank Bruni and New York Magazine's Adam Platt battle BLT Fish!

On the appetizers:

Bruni sez:  "Next come Cheddar and chive biscuits with butter drenched in maple syrup, another indication of Mr. Tourondel's readiness to tilt in unexpected directions to delight and sate you.  Appetizers are less blunt but no less enjoyable."  Mmm-hmm!

Platt sez:  "Before the meal, every table is also served a batch of warm, delicious biscuits flavored with Cheddar cheese and chives. These biscuits are a conscious echo of the much-praised popovers at BLT Steak, but what they have to do with seafood isn’t entirely clear. Then come the appetizers, which are the most successful category on the menu, mainly because they give Tourondel an opportunity to actually do some cooking."  Ooh, snap!

On the fish:

Bruni sez:  " The main reason is Mr. Tourondel's discernibly greater passion for the life aquatic...(Y)ou would be harder pressed to encounter a fish as exquisitely moist, delicately flavored and expertly prepared as the whole pink snapper at BLT Fish."  DOH!

Platt sez:  "When it comes to the main Fish section, however, things go strangely wrong. I didn’t know quite what to do with my piece of unadorned Icelandic halibut, which looked lovely in its clean, blocky whiteness but was overcooked. "  WHOA!

On the side dishes and condiments:

Bruni sez:  "And you can request, on the side, one of an array of house-made condiments, from a sprightly ginger ketchup to a wickedly indulgent lime-cilantro mayonnaise...[E]ach of those sides easily serves two people, and some are wonderful, especially the salt-crusted sunchokes (also known as Jerusalem artichokes), served with a spread of crème fraîche and white truffle oil, and the crunchy, shamelessly buttery silver dollar potatoes. It's hard to quibble too much with pleasure of this order."  Burned!

Platt sez:  "The overwrought sauces and steakhouse-style side dishes (dried-out pommes soufflés, treacly-sweet parsnip purée) don’t do much to alleviate this grim state of affairs."  Moted!

On the service:

Bruni sez:  "What saves these options from seeming gimmicky or exhausting is how enjoyable most of them are, how well they fit the restaurant's promotion of less hidebound dining and how succinctly the informed, ebullient servers help you navigate through them."  Tssssss!

Platt sez:  "The best of the group was the cod, which the chef flavors with perhaps too much acacia honey, and the swordfish, which is flavored with a blend of what my voluble waiter (I’ve noticed the complex mix-and-match menu formula tends to turn every waiter into a carnival barker) called 'Mediterranean spices.'"  Oh no he di-int!

On the desserts:

Bruni sez:  "It's equally hard to find restaurants that click as well as BLT Fish, which carries its melding of sophistication and sass through to desserts. They include a marshmallow-crowned rethinking of Rocky Road ice cream as a chocolate and praline cake that would look at home in a French pastry case."  Dios mio!

Platt sez:  "Neither do the desserts (a good bread pudding laced with apricots, boring chocolate praline cake, a nice meringue dish with banana passion-fruit sorbet), which are professional in a straightforward, uninspired way. You don’t even have to eat dessert, since every table receives a jar of gimmicky green cotton candy to chew on after the food has departed."  Aiya!

On the price:

Bruni sez:  "There's a rub, and it's the size of the final bill. On their own, an appetizer and entree can easily add up to about $50, and the profit-minded splitting of vegetables ($8) and starches ($7) into separate categories can push that total above $60 before dessert, drinks or tip."  Busted!

Platt sez:  "The John Dory I sampled tasted mildly vulcanized, even semi-frozen, and cost a grand total of $87. The puppy-size lobster was showered in an ingenious mix of panko bread crumbs and black olives but cost as much as a low-end iPod. Ditto the tasty, salt-baked New Zealand snapper, which cashed in at around $90, and the very good Cantonese-style red snapper, which is about four times what you can expect to pay for the same dish down in Chinatown."  Awwww shizzy!

And for good measure, Gastropoda weighs in on the downstairs:

Schrambling sez:  "I can’t say I wasn’t warned, repeatedly, but I was still stunned at how profoundly mediocre the food is downstairs at BLTFish. How can a charming Frenchman who made his name with brilliant takes on seafood at Cello be doing so much better with meat these days? One clue can be found in Food Arts: Instead of minding the stove, he’s posing for an Illy ad. He may 'live for moments of excitement and passion' on a motor bike, but some of us would settle for a piece of cod not cooked to slime on a bun."  Jigga-who?!

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April 24, 2005

Top five kinky sounding kids' snacks:

5.  FluffernutterSandwich2







4.  Blow PopBpoplogo













3.  Twinkies Content_03









2. Sugar Daddy

Sugardaddy_small










1.  Big StickTreats_fun_10

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April 21, 2005

(Lunch at the Shake Shack with my roommate and his friend Jon.  My roommate & I have a Shack burger, a root beer float, and fries each, and we split a Chicago dog.  At the end of the meal, he looks at my leftover piece of hot dog bun.)

HE:  I'm impressed.

ME:  That I didn't eat the bread?

HE:  No, that you finished the hot dog.

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