Category: Recipes

Home Economics: The Reclamation Potluck

What's in your fridge?
Photo by John Taggart

Some people want every meal to be made to order; once their food is in its finished state, it will never again see the inside of a refrigerator again. Hint: I am not one of those people.

I get anxious when parting ways with the last three tablespoons of stew, a picked-clean T-bone, or a Chinese takeout container half-filled with cold, hard rice. I have no shame asking the waiter to Drop. That. Plate. when one tries to clear the remains of ravaged crostini. I like food. I really like saving food.

For home economists like me, a meal tastes even better sauced with the satisfaction of knowing you salvaged what someone else might have tossed. In The Road, the protagonist in the fills up the bathtub with water in preparation for the post-apocalypse. With enough of that water and the contents of my always overstuffed cupboards, I’m pretty sure I could feed myself and some friends through three months of end times.

You probably could, too. The EPA says that we generate 34 million tons — as in 68,000,000,000 pounds — of food waste every year.  I see it happen in my own house on a much smaller scale. I have a lot of storage space, and it’s packed to the gills with dried chiles, cornmeal, juniper berries, and other odds and ends that were used once and then left to age ungracefully in the back of the cabinet.

The idea for a reclamation potluck came up during a chat I was having with my like-minded pal, Rachel, extolling the virtues of making meals from those cupboard orphans. Wouldn’t it be great to have a potluck where you have to make something with the stuff you already have in the house?, we thought. This would be especially fruitful for us food editor/writer types, as we tend to squirrel away weird samples and fancy food stuffs into the backs of our pantries and freezers.

The rules for a Reclamation Potluck:

  • Use something you already have in your fridge or cupboards.
  • Cook the kind of thing you would normally eat for dinner — no need to get fancy
  • Share with your friends

And you know what? The idea seemed to bring out our cooking friends’ A game. Rachel made a huge pan full of tangy grits plumped up with a broth made from random cheese rinds, along with cider-vinegary black-eyed peas, rich with andouille sausage. Francis brought some marrowy, meaty beans made with beef bones and rendered salami fat, which he talked up on Twitter for the half hour prior to actually coming to the party. When he finally arrived, he put them on the stove to rewarm, stuck the handle of a spoon into the pot, and held it out for me, imploring, “Just taste the FAT, man; that’s just the FAT.”

JJ took some leftover frozen pork belly gaeng hang lay and threw it together with vegetables and thin rice noodles. He was humble and unassuming about it, but the dish was spectacular. You’d never have known that the sweet, tender, fatty pork, stewed with fragrant spices and plenty of whole kaffir lime leaves, had been resurrected from a cryogenic state. It reminded me of my dad’s nightly dinners, in which he’d mix leftover stir-fries into a bubbling broth with a packet of ramen; A toothsome noodle can revive anything.

Obvious benefits include clearing out your pantry to make room for new stuff, not letting food go to waste, and seeing friends. We covered a broad range of cuisines and flavors, which is one of the things about a reclamation potluck you just have to embrace:

Reclamation PotluckReclamation PotluckReclamation PotluckReclamation PotluckReclamation PotluckReclamation PotluckReclamation PotluckReclamation PotluckReclamation PotluckReclamation Potluck

For my part, I’ve been dying to use more of these salt-packed anchovies that have been sitting in my fridge, waiting for me to be interested in puttanesca sauce again. I also figured that, as the host, I could provide some greens for what was sure to be a starch-heavy table. This bagna cauda recipe is loosely based on one by Suzanne Goin in Sunday Suppers at Lucques. I really upped the anchovy count and decreased the amount of butter. All the salt is in the sediment, so be careful when you salt to taste. Any leftovers can be tossed into a salad the next day. If you’re as lucky as I was, you’ll also have reclamation leftovers to pad out your meal.

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Bagna Cauda with vegetables

3/4 cup olive oil
1/2 stick butter
15-20 salt-packed anchovies, soaked, deboned, filleted, and chopped
6 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced
2 teaspoons of fresh thyme
Salt and pepper
Vegetables for dipping, such as fresh radish, endive, blanched cauliflower, blanched broccoli, blanched carrots, boiled fingerling potatoes, blanched artichoke heart
Lemon
Maldon sea salt

Heat olive oil and butter over very low heat until the butter is melted. Add anchovies and stir until they dissolve into the oil. Add garlic and thyme and cook for just one minute longer, being careful not to brown the garlic. Taste for salt and add as needed. Squeeze a bit of lemon juice in there.

Squeeze more lemon on your vegetables. Sprinkle with Maldon. Serve the sauce with a spoon so it can be spooned over the vegetables. Reheat as needed.

**

For more inspiration, I highly recommend Tamar Adler’s book, An Everlasting Meal. It’s a modern handbook for home economists, full of lots of brilliant dinner renewal tips.

 

B-r-r-r-unch and Rice Krispies Waffles

Brunch

12 weeks until the Ride to Montauk century

Today’s mileage: 1.5 miles (sad face)

Total mileage: 1.5 miles

Diet: Carb worship

Feeling: Pear-shaped. My shoulder meat is trying to abscond with my chin.

Well, at least I got on the bike today. I spent the morning shlepping groceries from the store in preparation for our 25-person brunch (unaffiliated with St. Patrick’s Day). (Tangent: F this winter. F THIS WINTER. I am so, so, so over it, as are my poor, gloveless digits, which nearly fell off during my five-block journey to the supermarket.) La Doug did most of the cooking for this one. I was happy to nosh myself into a totally unearned carb coma. When Doug first told me the menu, I was like, there’s no way we are going to need all that food. However, we managed total high glycemic decimation. We’re awesome?

Brunch

Brunch

Menu:

Like really fresh-squeezed orange juice. My tender legs hauled probably 30 lbs. of oranges in my trusty Ortlieb panniers, so that’s got to count for something. Doug wanted the oranges for fresh-squeezed orange juice, which is the kind of thing that I would NEVER think to do. I love fresh orange juice, I do. But you haul 30 lbs. of oranges into your house and squeeze maybe 4 lbs. of juice out with a five-piece contraption that needs to be cleaned by hand; then the skin and pith and pulp fill the trash bin, which means you have to take the trash out at least once before your guests even arrive. My lazy preference is to buy Odwalla or something like it, because that tastes perfectly fine to me — especially with a chaser of all-that-time-I-saved. (Even better than that would be getting fresh-squeezed orange juice from one of the Mexican grocers in our neighborhood, where you can often get a gigantic foam cup filled for only $5.)

But this is precisely why Doug and I make such a good kitchen team. His idea of a dinner party is an elaborate, plated, 11-course orgy with themed tablecloths and placecards; my idea of a feast at home is one in which all cooking happens in one pot, and guests are free to serve slop a scoop onto their plates their own damn selves. In real life, here’s how our kitchen personalities play out: when he has to turn his attention to a white chocolate habanero ice cream that refuses to set, I can swoop in and improvise a simpler salad to serve to patiently waiting guests; and my participation in his culinary choreography teaches me that I am a lot more capable of fancy timing and service than I think I am. He drags me along for the extra ten miles when all I think I’m capable of is five, and I push him forward with practical tactics when his ambition has surpassed his energy.

51-rEF1lbFL._SL500_AA300_Back to my sad face cycling — the only reason I got my mileage up to 1.5 instead of 0.8 miles is that the orange haul left no room for milk, and I had to go back to pick up Rice Krispies for the waffles. Rice Krispies?, you are asking, intrigued. Yes! It’s the special ingredient in one of the many ingenious recipes in the Cook’s Country Cookbook, which is Doug’s absolute favorite go-to book. (There’s a newer edition available through Amazon here, but I don’t know if this recipe is in there.)

Brunch

Light and Crispy Waffles from Cook’s Country: The recipe calls for beaten egg whites, nothing unusual there, but it requires milk, not buttermilk, eschews butter for vegetable oil (a common Cook’s trick), and uses 3/4 cup of cornstarch “to combat excess moisture.” But the totally brillso bit is that you add a cup of Rice Krispies to the batter. Doesn’t matter that they get soggy in the batter — through some awesome alchemy, they add secret pockets of snap, crackle, and pop, but don’t at all mar the deeply caramelized, perfect grid exterior. (Okay, I nearly burnt the one in the picture, but it was still delicious.) We use a Cuisinart Round Waffle Maker, which we set to 3. Nonstick surface and a well-oiled batter means we didn’t have any problems with sticking, even when one of the guests overfilled the grid, spilling batter down its sides. We also doubled the recipe without any problems.

It’s Cake o’Clock!

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God, I love cake. And I love baking when the weather is bad. I followed this classic Gourmet recipe, which is probably the cake recipe I have made the most in my life. I swapped the raspberries out for dollops of fresh applesauce made from the mystery mix of CSA apples in my refrigerator crisper. No cinnamon – sometimes you want to eat apples without cinnamon, you know?

It reminded me of this amazing warm, applesauce-filled muffin I bought once from Magnolia Bakery years ago – it must have been an off-the-menu special because I never saw it there again. The tangy, unsweetened applesauce and buttermilky batter are just lovely together.

I figure I’d better bake now in case the power goes out and I need to eat cake at 11pm.

Tunnel of Fudge

My birthday cake, bitches. Recipe from Cook’s Country, subscription required (full recipe available here). The secret to the tunnel is a batter that includes confectioners sugar and cocoa, which separate out in the bundt cake. The oomph in this particular rendition came from Hersheys Special Dark cocoa and a little extra salt. And I got three wishes because I was celebrating with a Mexican.

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Sweet Orange Buns from the Saveur 100

 

Todd Coleman, Saveur.com

These are the pastries I was telling you about. Holy moly. Ben Mims tested these at least three or four times, and each time he tweaked the recipe, it got better. Editors would stand around the kitchen island moaning and picking at the Pyrex pan, then turning around and stuffing leftovers into Ziploc bags. One Sunday morning, after a week or two of breathing in the scent of orange zest, butter, and brown sugar at the office all week, I woke up with a really intense craving for the buns. But I was like, it’s crazy to make an entire 13×9 pan of buns because I know I will EAT THEM ALL. I better just go to the Doughnut Plant instead. So I did. And I bought four doughnuts. That’s right, FOUR DOUGHNUTS. And I ate them all. And I still wasn’t satisfied, so I went and begged Ben for the recipe so I could bake (and eat) a whole pan the following weekend anyway.

I could have saved my belly from four doughnuts, people. Do yourself a favor and just make these orange buns instead. And don’t be surprised if they become your next recipe obsession.

The only blueberry pie recipe you’ll ever need

Yesterday morning I woke up to WNYC and heard Evan Kleiman raving about a fresh blueberry pie recipe. 30 words, maybe 15 seconds, and then the segment was over.

But it stuck in my head. A pie with fresh, succulent blueberries! Not indigo glop! Perfect for this time of year when the farmers market is awash in plump, pincushion New Jersey bluebs.

I went to bed last night and had air conditioner noise-induced dreams about this pie. Fresh blueberry pie….fresh blueberries…in pie…plump and juicy…quit it with the pie and fucking go to sleep already…fresh blueberries….

So when I woke up, I knew I had one task for the day and one task only – find that recipe and make that pie.

I googled “Evan Kleiman fresh blueberry pie” and found it: Dorothy’s Fresh Blueberry Pie from the blog Shockingly Delicious. And I’m telling you, it IS genius. You cook a little less than half the berries with some sugar and cornstarch, then you fold in bucketfuls of fresh blueberries and put the mixture into a blind-baked crust. Refrigerate for a few hours, then serve with a little whipped cream.

ZOMG SO GOOD. Huge hit at the barbecue I went to tonight.

This magical recipe solved my general problem with pies and cobblers in the summer, which are:

1. My kitchen is not air conditioned so I don’t want to have the oven on for an hour

and

2. It’s really hard to beat the texture and flavor of ripe, raw summer fruit. It’s one thing to make jams to preserve that flavor for the bland winter months, but it feels somehow audacious to think one can improve on the summer’s ripest fruit.

That’s why I love love love this recipe. It’s the best of both worlds – a tiny bit of cooking (blind baking the crust and making a sort of blueberry jam as a binder) and scads of juicy local blueberries, just as nature intended them to be enjoyed. The slices actually hold together much better than traditional goopy blueberry pie. It’s such a pleasure to take bite after bite of bursting, sweet-tart, raw blueberries which are slicked and sugared and spiced just enough to sex them up the tiniest bit. It’s like the difference between a little lip gloss and mascara vs. Glamour Shots spackling.

Also, it’s dead simple! Really, you must try it. Low LOE, high ROI. Thank you Dorothy Reinhold (and Evan Kleiman) for introducing me to my new summer standard.

A few notes:

  • Get the best locally grown blueberries you can find. I got my fruit from the Grand Army Plaza Greenmarket where pints were 2 for $7. I used about 6 pints for two pies. Rinse well and pick them over for stems and leaves.
  • I used Smitten Kitchen’s all butter pie crust recipe (go easy on the water). Blind bake at 375 degrees with parchment and pie weights for 20 minutes, poke with a fork all over, then continue baking another 10 minutes without the parchment and pie weights.
  • And if you, like me, don’t have room in your kitchen for a stainless steel counter, I have one of these nifty Roul’pats for easy rolling.

Pecan Sesame Homemade Granola

Granola

My co-workers know that second breakfast is my favorite meal of the day.  And yogurt with fruit and granola is my favorite second breakfast. 

I often wind up buying pots of yogurt from Pret downstairs from the office, but I have to eat it with the distaste I have for its price.  Granola is cheap and easy to make. 

This is a riff on the recipe The Amateur Gourmet posted for Baked’s granola.  Adam’s right, it’s a wholesome, everyday granola with a good dose of salt to balance the brown sugar.  It’s crunchy and just clumpy enough (thanks to the honey).  You can add whatever nuts and seeds you have on hand.  Just make sure you don’t add the fruit until the granola has cooled completely — the dried fruit turn into chewy dogbone bits if you bake them.  I also dialed the salt down by 1/4 tsp.

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Apricot cardamom yogurt cake

apricotcardamomyogurtcake.jpgIt’s been a busy few weeks.  I had a setback in my writing schedule when I got ill with some flu-like thing again. Maybe next year, I get the flu shot.

I never feel more alone than when I am ill.  I hear that mothers always feel this way — that there’s no one to take care of them when they are sick.  Knowing I’d be in no state to cook when I got home, I picked up some cupcakes on the way to the train.  I like stocking up on crack snacks when I’m ill because they’re easiest to get past the killed tastebuds.

So when day 1 of my illness turned into day 2 and I’d plowed through my two cupcakes, I needed more simple carb sustenance.  My neighborhood offers very few delivery options, and I was not about to walk more than a block from home in my state, so I figured I’d have to pull something together from the cupboard.

Everybody needs an arsenal of pantry-ready recipes.  I searched for something simple and found this Chocolate & Zucchini recipe for Yogurt Cake.  It’s my favorite kind of recipe — barely measured, simple to follow even when the flu has turned your brain to mush.

But in a feverish moment of inspiration, I decided to add those stewed apricots.

apricots_cake.jpgIt still sucks to be alone when you’re sick, but what am I going to do?  Sometimes it’s enough to stuff my face with this cake and watch Jerry Springer for an afternoon.

apricot cake baked.jpg Apricot Cardamom Yogurt Cake

The pan pictured here is one of those floppy silicone jobs which La Doug got for Christmas one year.  Worked well for popping the cake out at the end, but you have to put the pan on a baking sheet or you won’t be able to carry it into the oven.  Such a weird design.  I haven’t figured out what they would be best for yet.

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Curry Hurry

“My friends were poor, but honest; So’s my love.”
– Helena, All’s Well that Ends Well

We had an impromptu dinner party for 12 of our best friends at Sarah and Alex’s palatial new flat in Fort Greene.  Sarah and Shannon’s cinnamon-hued hound puppy made a few social appearances between naps while the rest of us pulled our chairs up around a rough-edged marble kitchen table, sipping prosecco from wide-mouthed champagne glasses, picking at a hunk of pecorino and peppery water crackers. 

Newcomers toured their epic backyard garden — wet burgundy Japanese maple, slick pebble and white-painted wood, pre-blossom wisteria enveloping the walls, the dual hammocks dripping cool spring rain.  Even the indoor cacti were looking as succulent and lush as I’ve ever seen cacti look.

Really, it is heaven to be there with all of my beloveds.  My friends don’t have a lot of money, and we’re in varying states of employment, but many of us have lucked out on good New York apartments; on days like these, surrounded by my crew, I feel like a contessa. 

La Doug chose this recipe for the dinner party because it was easily doubled and can be made in one pot.  We all loved it. The ground cashews add a bit of texture, giving the curry zaftig body and meatiness, rounded out by the mellowing yogurt.

It went over like gangbusters with some sauteed spinach and rice cooker-prepped jasmine rice.  You absolutely MUST use a good curry powder — we love S&B Oriental curry powder,
the blend of choice for Japanese curry.  It can be found at any Asian grocery store and a surprising number of delis in Manhattan.

Chicken Curry with Cashews

This recipe is from Epicurious. 

Heat 1 stick (1/2 cup) butter in a 7-quart heavy pot over moderately low heat until foam subsides.

Fry 3 chopped onions, 4 chopped garlic cloves, and 2 tbsp. minced ginger until softened, about 5 minutes.

Add 6 tbsp. S&B curry powder, 1 tbsp. salt, 2 tsp. ground cumin, and 1 tsp. cayenne and sauté for 2 minutes.

Add 6 lbs. chicken parts and cook, stirring to coat, 3 minutes.

Add 2 (14.5-oz.) cans tomatoes with juice and simmer gently, covered, stirring occasionally, until chicken is cooked through, about 40 minutes.

Grind 1 1/2 cups cashews until very fine, then add to curry along with 1 1/2 cups whole milk yogurt . Simmer gently, uncovered, stirring, until sauce is thickened, about 5 minutes.

Serves about 8 on a rainy Sunday.

After we got home from Sarah and Alex’s:

DOUG:
I really feel like the kitchen’s not that bad at all.

[pause]

DOUG: That’s why
I’m going to wait ’til tomorrow to clean up.

Recipes 4.0

Dear Crabby,

What up with all the crazy colors on your recipes now, dog?

Colorblind

Dear Colorblind,

1. Sorry, you are probably S.O.L. on this one, because I like my color scheme.  Sorry.

2. Here’s my rant.  I have long, long believed that the recipe is a technology in desperate need of an upgrade.  You Cook’s Illustrated types will have no fucking idea what I am talking about.  Fair enough, please go and organize your jars of heirloom beans in alpha order while I talk this out.

The rest of yous might be able to appreciate this.   I am impatient when it comes to recipes.  I want to understand a recipe at a glance.  I don’t want to miss an important detail like the length of time I should saute a scallop before it turns into a rubber eraser.  So why are those important details so often lost in the middle of dry, wordy, finger-wagging sentences?

The way I see it, recipes should be as easy to immediately grasp as guitar tablature.  There’s a huge difference between this:

Place your index finger on the fourth string from the top at the second fret; place your middle finger on the fifth string from the top at the third fret; and place your pinky finger on the bottom string at the second fret; but refrain from hitting the top two strings.

and this:
d-major-chord.gifA paragraph is an imperfect form for a list of tasks that have varying difficulty and length.  We move from task to task. 

Also, why are the ingredient amounts listed separately from the instructions?  Some people measure every ingredient out onto individual bowls in a dish-dirtying mass of mise en place.  I am not one of those people.  I want to grab the cumin once, throw the right amount into the pot at the right time, then put the cumin back into the pantry. 

Why is it that temperatures and times are given the same text weight as nonsense like “bring to a” and “stirring occasionally”? 

The digitally trained eye no longer reads.  It scans.  It looks for keywords.

Recipes can be poetry, and they can be prose, but rarely are those kinds of recipes utilitarian for me.  I cannot bear to use my pinky knuckle to scroll down the page of a particularly chatty recipe when my fingers are full of pork juice.

At their core, recipes are just collections of data and should be treated as such.  I have a gazillion ideas about how to organize recipe into data that can
be scanned and sorted by the cook who doesn’t want to stand around
reading the details of a recipe before digging in and making it.

If you’re a developer who wants to work with me on my grander ideas, get in touch.  In the meantime, I’ll be experimenting with recipe presentation in the coming posts using
text, font styles, color.

For now, here’s the color decoder to my upcoming recipes:

blue: ingredients
red: timing
green: action

These changes have already given me much satisfaction.  Stay tuned for more, and let me know if they work for you.